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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 20
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 20 |
I've searched on this topic and can't find the thread I remember seeing about this.
I've got a BL-4 I'd like to add some length to and it has a curved (crescent) buttplate. It's my personal gun. I intend to use one of the red pads from Galazan. When I've done this sort of work on other guns I've squared off the butt and simply installed the pad, but I'd like to leave this gun in its original configuration.
Is there a practical way to do this? Obviously bending the pad will add a curve to the part of the pad that hits the shoulder. Is there a way to correct this? Are there other considerations I don't see?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
SK
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13 |
When the pad is expendable, replaceable or damaged, I have left the pad, ground it down flat using it as if it were a spacer and added the new pad. I have done this on a couple of guns that had curved butt end and/or a widows peak at the top of the stock.
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 20
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 20 |
That's a great idea. I'd kinda like to keep the original pad if possible. I've thought about using it as a pattern and molding something on my shaper with a flush trim cutter but haven't figured out a good way to go about this.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12 |
Heat the pad so it will fit the stock , install it- then Galazans pads can be cut on a band saw to shorten , or what ever. You can sand them on a disc or belt sander to whatever shape you want- give it a straight surface . When I want to lengthen the LOP I get his 1 1/2" pad then cut to what I want . Paul
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 10
Junior Member
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 10 |
A past post recommended bending a pad spacer with steam or hot water to match the stock and then grinding it flat and adding the pad on top of it. If you ground it until it was thin (say, 1/8") at the thinnest it would not add much more length than the pad. This would make it simpler to replace the pad in the future, and the spacer is probably easier to grind flat than the pad is.
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 20
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 20 |
Some good ideas here. Thanks for the help!
SK
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,625 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,625 Likes: 13 |
It really depends. If the radius is not overly severe, you can do it with a spacer. Spacers are cheap; pads somewhat more pricey. If that length works out about right, that would be the way to do it. Figure out where your holes in the stock need to be. Boil the spacer for about 2-3 minutes, lay it where it will end up and place some weight on it; shot bags work well. it should end up fitting properly. Then you need to flatten the back side of the spacer to receive the pad. Freeze the spacer and belt sand it quickly. Put it back in the freezer every few minutes until you get it right (flat). Now you have a flat surface to receive the pad. It takes a little more time but please don't cut the stock!
[IMG]
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 799
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 799 |
Boil pad and bend to fit while still hot then cool by running under cold water. It is now shaped. Attach and sand to fit. I have done this several times and have had no problems. I have heard that some pads have metal in them and won't bend, but I use the black pachm. pads. They have bent easily for me in the past.
Loren
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