doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com steel shot in a cylinder choked double

Has anyone shot steel through a cylinder bored double? I'm wondering if it would be alright to reload and use a plastic shot cup to protect the bores. Since there is no choke to bulge it seems theoretically sound.

Bsteele,

It's been done more than once. I wouldn't definately say yes, it's OK. Most reccommend no more choke than M, IC or C would be better I think. A chrome lined barrel is a plus also. A few Ithaca/ SKB doubles have had steel shot through them, this I know has been done with success. There have been several articles written on this. Two that stand out in memory was a Parker 12 and a Win. M12 Duck. Both survived the rigor unhurt. Both had the chokes either opened or tubes were installed. As I recall the Parker was fed reloads.

Chief

I was thinking of an unchoked antique double. I've been bitten by the hammergun bug and am exploring my options, namely using them for ducks. I'm not a tight wad, but bismuth is extremely expensive and most ducks I shoot are inside 25yds over decoys.

I cannot recall exactly the time those articles were put out. I do know that they were in Gun Digest books and will assume post 1980. The Parker would classify as vintage, not necessarily antique. Your gun would most likely be older. I think what applied to the Parker could apply your gun except for the pressures. In your case you have no choke. I would be more concerned about the pressure of the reload. I suppose that if the gun meant a lot to me or had reasonable collector value I'd spring for the bismuth. You would have to shoot or shoot at a bunch of ducks to balance out the cost. I still have the gut feeling that steel would be OK through no choke with a shot cup.

Chief

The bigger issue is pressure with steel loads. They tend to be very fast loads with high pressures which are not good for old double guns, their stocks or old shooters shoulder shooting them.

Steel is loaded to fast velocity to offset the quickness which it looses speed and energy. Slow steel performs poorly on game. When you think about shooting cost of three bucks a shell as high you are getting distracted by one expense. Yes $75.00 a box is steep but when you consider a box of shells a day would be a lot of poor quality shooting or one of they best days of your life it is not that much. I figure a day hunting cost several hundred dollars even if I don't shoot. Lost wages, gas, equipment, hunting fees and license, plus all the other expense far exceed shell cost. Shoot what works well and is safe for your gun. Saving 30-40 bucks on a box of shells is not that big of a deal.

I'm mostly considering reloading, probably black powder loads.

I just wanted to check to see if anyone has had problems of thier own, or knows of anyone having trouble.

I've shot a bunch of #7 shot factory steel loads through a Nitro Special and a Stevens without harming the barrels. I've also reloaded a few shells with black powder/steel shot and had no problems. I used cardboard over-powder wads combined with plastic steel shot wads (with piston sleeves cut off). Make sure you use wads designed for steel shot because they have thicker petals to keep the shot from scoring the barrel.

Steve

Black powder will melt the plastic steel shot wads. The old Republic Metal Cartridge shells with non-tox created a terrible mess of melted plastic to clean up after shooting.

Size 7 shot is not a problem but steel 2s are more likely to "bridge" and bulge an older steel barrel, especially if there is any choke at the muzzle...Geo

Handloaded ITX shot from Ballistic Products has been very effective for me. I shoot 7/8 oz. #6 and #4 in a 2.5" hull 12ga. over a mild charge of PB, loads are in the Ballistic Products manual.

I used it almost exclusively out here on the saltwater estuaries. I've killed more ducks and geese with less shells than in the past with steel in a modern sxs. Loaded cost is about $30-$35/ bx not that much higher than premium steel.

The issue with older guns, assuming you can hold the pressure down to reasonable levels, would be the quality of the steel and the thickness of the barrel walls. Danger would be a potential ring bulge. That is reduced with 1) more open chokes; and 2) smaller size steel. It's increased with 1) thinner barrel walls; and 2) lower quality barrel steel.

A lot of old American 12ga doubles would likely be OK with no choke, because they often have pretty stout barrels. Expect I'd risk it with something like a Stevens, Lefever Nitro, Hunter Fulton, etc. Would probably hesitate with any kind of American classic in really nice condition, especially if higher grade.