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Joined: Apr 2004
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I am by definition a tinkerer.

Taken apart a lot of guns, LC's, Auto 5's, 1100, Model 12's etc. I even put them back together again…. but I am stumped with my pre 25,000 serial number G grade Lefever. The hammers are on the action and the locks on the side plates. How do you get it back together? I am replacing a Lever Spring, (Help there also appreciated) and had to make a new rear screw. I had the guard tig'ed I and dilled and taped a new hole for my new screw. The old screw was broken and epoxied, along with the trigger guard, in place. I can make a screw, but am stumped with putting the darn thing back together.

Meanwhile back at my old familar LC Smiths. The forend on my specialty grade ejector (banjo release) doesn't lock in place. It snaps on but can be pulled off. I found this out in the middle of a round of Sporting Clays this morning. Hard to hold on to a splinter forend that pops off, especially with a broken thumb! How do I fix this?

Thanks in advance.

Jerry

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Originally Posted By: Gerald A. Mele
I am by definition a tinkerer.

Meanwhile back at my old familar LC Smiths. The forend on my specialty grade ejector (banjo release) doesn't lock in place. It snaps on but can be pulled off. I found this out in the middle of a round of Sporting Clays this morning. Hard to hold on to a splinter forend that pops off, especially with a broken thumb! How do I fix this?

Thanks in advance.

Jerry


Jerry,

The spring on your banjo thumb roller latch is probably broken or weak...easy to check if you are a tinkerer......

Gun Parts (Numrich) usually has new ones in stock, or you can make one easy enough.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/1014450.htm

Best,



Doug



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them lefevers are about the easiest guns to put back together I have ever fooled with. On all i have had apart they can be put back together without even compressing the main spring. On the axle for the cocking hook & hammers note the lug is not centered. A careful look at the holes in the various parts will show you which way it needs to go in. After installing the hammers in the at rest (Fired) position you are ready to put the side plates on. Note the triggers have a light spring to hold them against the sears. Hold the triggers forward to ensure the sears are going in above the trigger blades & she'll go right on. Does your G have little tenons turned on the ends of the hammer axles which protrude through the sideplates. I have a G @ SN 20,633 which does.


Miller/TN
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All ejector L.C. Smiths have two ways of holding the for-end on, one is the "J" spring found on all L.C. Smiths and the other is the roller release found on ejector guns and non ejector guns after around 1919 (except Field grades).
The "J" spring makes contact in the front of the barrel loop while the roller release makes contact in a notch at the back of the loop securing it in. The roller release uses a coil spring and the "J" spring uses a short armed tension spring to hold it up.
If the spring for the roller release was broken, the release would move very easily, and if the "J" springs spring was broken, the "J" spring would stay down inside the recess.

You stated that it snaps on, but can be pulled off, so that sounds like the coil spring for the roller release is broken.


David


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Try putting a very thin shim between the underside of the forend iron and the forend wood. Sometimes this keeps the wood from touching the barrel too soon and not allowing the latch to catch fully. Check this by putting the forend iron on without the wood.

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Originally Posted By: Daryl Hallquist
Try putting a very thin shim between the underside of the forend iron and the forend wood. Sometimes this keeps the wood from touching the barrel too soon and not allowing the latch to catch fully. Check this by putting the forend iron on without the wood.

I had that same problem on a gun, I think it was a Nitro Special, and I used slices of business card to shim the forend iron. It worked perfectly.


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So I am getting that the action is install to the stock first. Then the hammers are put in place. After a bunch of studying I assumed that

Any good books on disassembly reassembly I want to strip it and cen it thoroughly
Jerry

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For the Lefever, the side plates come off first. If the sears are mounted to the plates, then no work needed there. If they are mounted to the frame, you first have to pull the sear sprigs out, then remove the pin holding the sears in at the top of the frame. Do not remove the sears yet... Then, on either model, you remove the hammers one side at a time. Tap the axle through just enough so that the hammer is free. Now that the hammer and sear are both loose, snake them both out of there. Then go to other side and tap the cocking axle back into the frame and out of that hammer, then remove that sides hammer and sear.

You can completely drive the cocking axle out and remove the cocking hook out the from also if you want, or leave it in, it doesn't matter.

Now you can remove the trigger plate and the frame from the stock.
Everything else is down hill.


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Is there an easy way to remove the mainsprings?

Jerry

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Is there an easy way to remove the mainsprings?

Jerry

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