doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com HEAVIER GUN REQUIRED

If that "Russian Wurst" thingee works out and you decide to re-introduce some style to your shooting, consider a heavy pigeon gun or a fowler. UK auctions usually have a fair-to-middlin' assortment at very reasonable prices. Now, don't faint (fainting is definitely "unmaahnly") at the following suggestion. There be a plethora, plethora, I say, of suitable American made doubles of suitable weight and breeding for your needs. Any number of Americans on this board will be happy to offer advice. ;-)

DDA

damascus, your gun is of the lot made exclusively for export into the UK, as it doesn't have sling swivels. The stock is is the best the factory could do, and in fact is times better than what's seen on gun sold in the USSR.

The crack through the wrist on these guns usually means someone didn't watch out for the crossbolt; one has to see if it's tight now and then. Izh12 is essentially the same action as the currently produced MP27, and many parts will fit, but not the stock; if you decide you're going to need a new stock check these out
http://www.oborontech.ru/index.php?categoryID=49
http://prikladov.ru/price/priklad-cevie/priklad-i-cevie-izh-12/
I don't know for sure if sending one of those to the UK is possible, but I can't see why not. They'll probably require precision fitting to place.

Don't hesitate to ask if you've got any questions.

It is a sad thing, but, this would be my suggestion also.
Up until a few years ago, I used to see an older gent (mid 90s in age) who would take a short walk down a snowmobile trail with his .410 single shot. He made no bones about the fact he shot his grouse on the ground, and didn't even try to shoot them flying anymore. He lived in an old folks home, and had to fight like hell to keep his single shot, and, his old pickup. He sold all the other guns after his wife and most of his kids had died.
He could walk in perhaps 1/2 mile and out the same distance. It impressed me, and made me sad at the same time.

Best,
Ted

The first thing is to repair the crack in the head of the stock though after removing the action a lot of the wood was found to be saturated with oil. In this saturated state it would be just a total waste of time and effort trying to glue the crack because Epoxy will not work at its best on oil contaminated surfaces. So the head will soak in 50/50 mix Xylene and cellulose thinners (I choose to use Xylene and cellulose thinners because this mix works exceedingly well also I prefer the smell as opposed to other solvents such as Acetone) for some days to remove the oil before I glue the crack in the stocks head.

In this photograph you will see that I used a small toolmakers clamp (sometimes known as steel fingers) in reverse function to open up the crack, by opening the crack in this controlled way over a couple of hours enables the wood to flex without the crack traveling much further.


I always use something to pull the Epoxy adhesive through a crack to make sure all areas are covered from top to bottom with adhesive, there is another alternative to dental floss (in the picture) which is mono filament fishing line either one works well. Now after the adhesive has set I decided to make and fit a Brass support in the shape of a square staple whose legs are fitted in holes drilled deeply in the wood each side of the crack and fitted with Epoxy Adhesive, this will greatly reduce the chances of the crack reopening in the future and will be conveniently out of site being covered by the trigger guard.



While the Epoxy cured I took this time to adjust the stocks profile at the head.





When I removed the stock I also found one of the action pins had not been completely driven home its top is marked in white in the photograph, the reason for this was too much wood had been removed from the inside and outside of this area when the action was fitted to the stock.



The altering the pins position was a very crude attempt to correct things by forcing the wood outwards even so the wood was still well below the actions surface in the area indicated by the yellow tape.

Sorry to hear you've been having problems, looks like you can't keep a good man down for long though. Good luck with the gun. That stock looks better already.

So I will reset the pin to its correct position then glue a piece of wood internally to this area then hopefully this will in turn raise this area of wood to near the correct height

Also have covered the action with electrical insulation tape at the metal to wood boundaries, this has two effects firstly it stops the abrasive paper from removing or marking what is left of the action�s blued finish. Also by only finishing the woods surface to the level of the tape which is 2 thousands of an inch thick the wood will be proud of the metal by this amount to further improve the look of the guns wood to metal fit.
019

After improving the stock and forend wood to metal fit in places and adjusting the stocks line at the head area also making some small adjustments to the forend I will now fit the silver oval There are a few things I would like to say about this because over the years I seem to have fitted quite a number of replacement silver ovals on old guns that had been removed which has made me think the only valuable item left on an old gun in the not so dim and distant past was that silver oval so people removed them. Now it is possible to purchase silver ovals from parts suppliers at an exorbitant cost, so many years ago I came up with the idea to use Victorian �Silver Shillings� because they are approximately the correct size with a high Silver content and even today their cost is just a couple of pounds for a heavily used example that coin collectors would not want.


Now as they are not classed as legal tender here in Brit land you can use them as you see fit so I make the coin oval then shape to the stocks profile but always having the tails side showing. My reasoning is that I just do not want to deface the head of Queen Victoria silly though it may sound she was still alive when most of the guns I have used her shilling coin as a replacement oval where made when she was still living. Also may be one day in the future some gunsmith may have to replace a stock and wont it be a talking point to find a Brit Victorian shilling rather than the standard tailor made Silver oval let in the guns stock.



The final thing to be fitted before I re-finish the stock is the recoil pad though one of the original screw holes needs plugging as the new pad fixing centres are quite different.
Also I will put two layers of electrical insulation tape to that part of the stock that butts up to the new recoil pad to act as a stop indicator when removing the pads excess overhang using a coarse abrasive belt on the linisher.


In removing the greater part of the pads excess now is not a good time to catch the wood with a coarse belt making deep abrasive score lines in the wood. I now recon between the values of the silver coin and a new recoil pad I have at least doubled the value of the gun and my reckoning puts it all of �10 give or take and as we say over here �many a true word is said in jest�

I think that Gunut (I believe it was him) and Ted S. have made what I would consider excellent suggestions so as to continue the "pleasure" of shooting: get a light, gas-operated auto - 1.75 inch 20 perhaps - and continue to enjoy the shooting sport. I also agree with ClapperZapper (?) and the suggestion of the under the coat pad or the Browning gel pads inserted into special pockets in some of their brand name shooting vests, jackets, and now even shirts. I used one at my doctor's insistence just a very few days after having some nice titanium plates and screws fitted to my newly re-built collar bone. The problem he was concerned with was that due to required "pruning" of the jagged ends, the collar bone did NOT meet in the middle, hence the need for the plate and the insertion of ground up bone shavings of mine and some donated by a cadaver until the bone could re-grow. Bottom line, the pad worked well through one week of wild pheasant hunting in SD and no problems were encountered since. Oh, I was also using a Beretta gas-operated 20 gauge semi-auto for that hunt too!!! Good luck with your shoulder problems and your quest for a suitable shotgun to use.

Ah, make that a 2.75 inch 20 gauge!!!!

My Baikal project is now finished and may be it will not be used by me for quite some time the shoulder is not improving as fast as I would have hoped. Firstly I would like to thank you folks on the other side of the pond for their kind wishes and advice on what may help my shoulder problems. But as a realist things are going to take some twelve months or more to sort themselves out well, I am not getting any younger quite the opposite in fact and I have given my shoulder a lot of use over the years.
Back to the gun I completed it about a month ago now and I have been waiting for the oil finish on the wood to harden before I re assembled the gun. I think now looking back I had a little too much time on my hands because being honest with myself putting such a quality oil finish on the wood was a little overboard when you consider the guns value, but I was keeping my hand in mixing up the finishing oil�s applying it and watch it change the wood that was as plane as a deck plank to something with a bit of interest and character. As usual I have taken some photographs of my efforts along the way in the hope my sad attempts at improving my skill at photography, though no improvements as yet!

That is truly an example of "making a silk purse out of a sow's ear" & I mean that in the most positive way.

Very nicely done.