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Forums10
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Most Online1,258
Mar 29th, 2024
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,763 Likes: 8
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,763 Likes: 8 |
Over here Ballistol is considered the Old Reliable.
With kind regards,
Jani
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,373 Likes: 6
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,373 Likes: 6 |
I like to make things more complicated than necessary, so I don't use just one oil. I use Hoppe's T3 which heavier and doesn't run much for the bearing points between the FE and the action and other contact points in the action - except for the hinge pin or stubs, which get lubricating grease. I use the lighter Hoppes 9 oil for moving parts like ejectors, safety slides etc. And I use Clenzoil as a wipedown oil.
This is a lot more interesting than just using one oil for everything.
Such a long, long time to be gone, and a short time to be there.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 869 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 869 Likes: 2 |
Not talking lubes or solvents means we're talking preservation against oxidation.
Goldenrod (or facsimile). That's #1 through #10, IMO.
#11, pick your poison: CLP, Ballistol, Clenzoil, RIG, M1Syn, BC Sheath, G96, WD40 (sez Brownells), Rem-Oil, Eezox, eieio.
Some anti-seize forumulations will support galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals (eg., graphite and Fe/Al interfaces). Don't imagine many here would even think to use never-seize on their fine doubles, though.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,736 Likes: 96
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,736 Likes: 96 |
I'll vote for Young's 303 oil. Not the modern stuff but the older version if you can find it. If only for the beautiful bouquet. The smell gets into the lining of the leather and oak gun case and just smell perfect when it's opened. A small that is on a par with real leather seats in cars. Mmmmmm. Lagopus.....
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 175
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 175 |
BEWARE OF DOGMA
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,266 Likes: 199
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,266 Likes: 199 |
Many gun oils work well on double mechanisms. I don't shoot them thousands of rounds, though. The one thing I enjoy is an oil applicator with a syringe type spout to apply the oil accurately in the proper small dossage to hard to get at parts.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,089 Likes: 334
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,089 Likes: 334 |
G96 is very good and underrated. I remember ordering it as a kid in the mid-'60's from a catalog I used to receive called Shooters Supply, I think it was. JR
Be strong, be of good courage.
God bless America, long live the Republic.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 927 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 927 Likes: 3 |
This is about as comprehensive a comparison of the gun oils as you will find - http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
My secret is out !! I was introduced to Red transmission fluid- oil several.years ago by black powder competitors. It has high levels of anti oxidants, is an excellent preservative and lubricant and cleaner It has never failed me.
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 459 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 459 Likes: 12 |
I'll vote for Young's 303 oil. Not the modern stuff but the older version if you can find it. +1 on this, though it is really a cleaner. I use Parker Hale Express oil as a strict 'oil', Parker Hale Youngs 303 inside the bores and Parker Hale Rangoon oil for preserving external surfaces ...... and no, I don't work for Parker Hale! I also strongly agree with the post about cleaning away the dirt and grit before re-oiling - probably more important than the oil itself.
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