doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com in the wood vs. built up finishes

Mike, I have been using a modified formula posted by Salopian (BLO+turpentine+liquid carnauba wax, shaken, not stirred) and have had nice results.

I would like to try the Waterlox you recommend, where can I get it from? I am travelling to Boston on the 1st of June to visit my son and can bring some down.

Thanks in advance.

JC(AL)

MDC,
I've no doubt that oils and solvents will penetrate very deeply, it's the finish solids (usually resins) that I suspect don't get very deep. That's a much harder thing to evaluate than just cutting a piece of wood that's been finished and looking at the stain line.

JC
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=294-001

JC-

I just went to Waterlox.com, clicked on "how to buy Waterlox", chose the state of MA, and got dozens of locations. You can also order online, but it looks like it will be convenient for you to shop in a store.

There are 2 products. The Sealer is water-thin and clear. If you've used Watco or Deft Danish oil, Formby's Tung oil or Permalyn sealer, it's very similar but somewhat superior, IMO. I like the tack time, cure time and incredible durability of very thinly built-up Waterlox sealer. Like virtually any clear, transparent liquid finish, once you've achieved the minimal build-up required for true impermeability, it WILL shine if polished. Just like the others, you'll need to control the gloss by the time-honored rub-out with rottenstone. But I find the fast, extremely hard cure more forgiving than the others.

I use only light-colored, highly figured CA English walnut for my own stocks which is why I've come to prefer the "Original Satin Finish." It's thicker, more like TruOil or ProCustom oil, but that's fine. I simply cut the first 2-3 coats 50% with mineral spirits as well as the first 2-3 wet sands with 320. Once I have complete fill, I use it full strength, but sparingly of course. The stain sheen comes by virtue of added flatteners, enough so the oil is murky, not transparent. Medium-light and/or highly-figured wood is very tolerant of this cloudiness. Very dark, and especially dark, unfigured wood may finish looking cloudy. As much as we tout "low gloss, satin oil" finishes, I think dark, figured walnut benefits from a slightly higher shine than satin. High gloss usually connotes a thick, plastic-like top coat which many of us object to. But high luster doesn't have to equate to high build-up.

best, Mike

Chuck and Mike, thank you for the pointers.

JC(AL)

Mike, so as not to bungle it, are these the product numbers? :

-Waterlox Original Sealer & Finish - TB5284
-Waterlox Original Satin Finish - TB 6044 (formerly TB 6022)

Already located distributors less than two miles from my son's apt.

Thank you again.

JC(AL)

Those are the ones, JC. You gonna pick one? They're about $25/qt.

I like to rebottle it in some 2 ounce bottles filled right to the top and refrigerate.

I would advise metal or glass containers. Some plastics allow oxygen to permeate through and will cure the Waterlox. I have also experienced loss of volatiles through a plastic bottle containing Custom Pro oil. The sides of the plastic bottle start to suck in. I have not tried polypropylene plastic bottles which might do better.

Mike, a quart of each will have to suffice, considering I have to fly down with them.

Thanks again for the info.

JC(AL)

Mike, have you tried using this in combination with other finishes? It strikes me that if one WANTED a slightly more built up finish or wanted to avoid the cloudiness you mention, they might use a gloss finish for the bulk of the work, and then a topcoat or two of the satin to achieve the desired lustre??