doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion Classic & Custom Single Barreled Sporting Rifles @ doublegunshop.com New engraving

I just got these parts for my long-range muzzleloader. I was up against some significant time constraints and he turned this around for me in a week and a half or so, including shipping time. told him I wanted something appropriate to a Henry-like rifle and, at least as far as I'm concerned, I think he did a great job.

Now to find someone to case color it.

Pretty darn nice!

Very handsome.

Who did the work? I think he needs to be acknowledged.

Jerry Liles

I like the restraint shown here--elegant and not "busy." Bravo to the artist and his patron!

I can't believe I didn't put his name on the first post. He is Tim Halloran, of Blue Grass, Iowa.

He did a rifle for a friend and I liked it and so I had him do this, and I like this much better actually. I think it is just about perfect for this rifle.

This is the rifle. I've shot it twice now in the white. This time it will be completely done.

This is a .45 caliber false-muzzle rifle with an 18 twist barrel and Pope rifling. It shoots very, very well.


Say, that brings me to another question. I need to blue some screws, nitre/fire blue would be best for most of them. However, buying some nitre from Brownells seems darn pricey for a once in a half decade user like myself. So, I have always opted to hold them in molten lead until they are just about right and then dunk in oil. I often have to do some screws 2-3 times to get it just right.

Any other, better ideas?

I've fire blued screw heads by holding them in the gas flame of a stove till they reached the proper color. Practice with some bits of polished steel first. If you take them out at the proper color you won't have damaged them.

Jerry Liles

BrentD,
I like the put together pic even more then the first one.

What is your load, bullet and powder, if I may ask? Patched or grease groove bullet? Are you using any wadding? What kind of groups have you been able to obtain so far? (I understand you probably have not done much load development so far)

I also have a very similar rifle I built although mine is more of a sporting rifle configuration.

I will probably leadpot them again. It is pretty easy to control temperatures that way, but I was wondering if there was a better idea.

The load for this rifle is a 513 grs 16:1 Prolate paper patched bullet. It backed by an LDPE wad and 82 grs of Swiss 1.5, ignited by an RWS cap. When I got it to the point you see it above, I took it to Oak Ridge and shot their 2-day spring match with it. I was just fooling around, not really expecting to do well at all, but I got hot right off the bat and went into full bore match mode and managed to win the whole thing. Since then I only shot it once more (last year's OR match) and I'll do it again this year in March. I intend to take it to Australia for the World match in 2017, as I have been invited to join the USA team.

This rifle was years in the making (I built it as my "tenure rifle" but I was a full prof before it was finished). The barrel and false muzzle was made by Bobby Hoyt, many other people contributed to it at different points along the way.

Does anyone have a case colorer to recommend who is fast in the turnaround? I am trying to avoid Classic Guns in Illinois after what happened with the 95 Marlin I sent them, but I don't know if someone like Turnbull can turn around the parts in 3 weeks or less. I have a note in to them yesterday. Whoever I choose they have to do it well or I'll end up wearing that bolster in my forehead. As pretty as it is, I don't like that sort of jewelry.

Brent

I bought a couple of bottles of Gordon's stump remover granules for a few bucks a bottle. There was a couple of varieties of the Gordon's, one which was a certain % of Sodium Nitrate (salt peter) and another that was 100% pure Sodium Nitrate. The pure stuff is what I bought. I picked up a steel bread pan from Goodwill for around $1.00, tested on some steel and proceeded to nitre blue some screws and pins and have used it a few other times over the years.

I read about using stump remover here a number of years ago and it works. If you have a propane burner, then you'll not have much money into the project.

Now there is a really cool idea. I wonder if it still exists and if I can find some? I will start looking, thanks!
Brent