doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion Classic & Custom Single Barreled Sporting Rifles @ doublegunshop.com New engraving

Cameron, Saltpeter is Potassium nitrate. It is the chemical used in blackpowder as the oxidizer is I remember correctly.
"Major uses of potassium nitrate are in fertilizers, tree stump removal, rocket propellants and fireworks..."

I believe near 100% potassium nitrate stump killer can work well, but I think it may be important to use a good thermometer and be able to hold a consistent temperature. Could be a good way to temper smaller parts after hardening too, if the temp can be controlled.

I have a decent thermometer or two, and what about using a 10# lead melting pot? I can adjust and hold temps pretty well that way I think.

I will be looking for the stump killer stuff It see it is 99% KNO3

Brent,

I would think that the lead melting pot would work well and probably be less finicky than the propane burner I've used.

It is important to hold a consistent temperature and with the propane, it seems one needs to constantly monitor and adjust the flame to maintain the constant temperatures needed.

As Craig mentions, a good thermometer is a must, one that registers up to around 800 degrees. The temp needs to be darn hot (around 750 degrees) and certainly the necessary precautions need to be taken when working with a molten substance.

I believe I bought the Gordon's at The Home Depot, but it or other brands can probably be found at a variety of hardware stores.

My bad on the Sodium Nitrate....I meant to say Potassium nitrate. Thanks for the correction LRF, certainly don't want to steer someone to the wrong chemical!

If it were me, I don't know if the lead pot would be questionable for casting afterwards. The melted stump stuff can be used over and over again, so it could be a good idea to dedicate one pot for it and just leave it in there.

I know many folks do it, but I'd rather use gas burners around bluing type salts than electric wiring and elements. It may just be me, but the life seems to be shortened. I checked to make sure it's still there, but Brownells nitre blue instruction pdf seems to be a really good guide even though it's not their product.

Actually, I have a pot for this purpose in mind. My casting pot is too big for this job anyway.

Thanks for the tip on the Brownells instructions. I'll look them up.

Did not find the stump remover I was looking for, so used niter fertilizer from the garden shop.
Probably not as high in nitrate, but seemed to work pretty well.
With a thermometer, also works to temper springs.
Chuck

"....Does anyone have a case colorer to recommend who is fast in the turnaround? I am trying to avoid Classic Guns in Illinois after what happened with the 95 Marlin I sent them,...."

What happened with Classic Guns if I can ask?

The engraving looks beautiful. Just right for the rifle.

FWIW,,Most any nitrate salt will work for 'nitre blue',,potassium, sodium, ammonium (as well as does molten lead.)
The 'salts' are easier to work with as they are clear when molten and you can easily look down in and see the results.

Any of the nitrates in their crude form of fertilizers or other garden use compounds works ok. As long as they melt when heated at under the required temp needed to color the steel what you want and you have a decent thermometer to trax the temp of the pot.
You don't need a big batch of the stuff for small stuff like screws and pins.
Be very careful with it. It'll burn thru most any protective clothing you wear and then continue thru your skin.
ANY water/moisture introduced into it will produce a violent explosion of 700F+ salts all over you. You will wear the scars of it for the rest of your life. Double eye protection ALWAYS when handling this stuff.
It's just a heat blue done in the absence of the free O2 of the atmosphere.

Kutter,
I sent them a Marlin 95 (circa 1899). I had polished it and take out the pits and dings and restocked it and replaced parts, and it was rebarreled. So, I sent it off to be case colored - as I have with a number of other old rifle actions, mostly Winchester 85s.

I got it back looking really good, if a bit gaudy, and put on the barrel. When I had it on just right. I pulled it from the vice and it swung down and the top tang hit the floor. Something that should not have happened. However the top tang went flying off with a lovely tinkling sound. That is also something that should never had happened, hitting the floor nor not. It had broken cleanly through the tang - crystallized. Later, the lever would also break.

I called CG and asked for an explanation - they, of course, claimed they were blameless. Couldn't even acknowledge that they might have screwed up. I was too pissed off to get mad. I knew I was screwed and basically gave up w/o a fight. Their whiny excuses tried to point the blame at others, and that simply wasn't justified. However, rather than fight, I chose to fold my cards on this one. Still makes me sick.

Since then, I have learned that no one has ever seen anything like that in any other Marlin of similar vintage - suggesting that is highly unlikely that Marlin screwed it up originally (CG's favorite explanation). Nor had anyone messed with the action insofar as refinishing it or recoloring it (another claim they made).

To be honest, I don't really know what happened, nor does anybody else, but I believe they forgot it in the furnace and roasted it. I have no other explanation. Had he been even sort of forthcoming with some kind of compromise, (say 1/2 my money back or something like that), I might not be quite so POed at them, but they did nothing. I lost not only the money I had invested in their service but also the value of the rifle and all the the time and money I had poured into it. Thus, I would like to never use them again. Everyone makes mistakes, except, apparently them.

If you don't already know, vintage 95s are scarcer than hen's teeth and damn pricey when you find one.

Screw Classic Guns!

Al Springer
Snowy Mountain Bluing
320 Rocky Mountain Ln.
Moore, Montana 59464.
406-538-6942

All color cases once a week, so turn around on polished parts is fast. His prices and work are great!