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Wow! That's quite a difference, Drew.

My routine is very simple, but effective:

Two wet patches wrapped around a bronze bristle brush run through a couple times.

One dry patch.

Electric drill with bristle brush wrapped with Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner run back and forth a couple times with special attention to first 12" and chokes.

One wet patch.

Dry with one patch.

Finished!

Total time 5 minutes.


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I have a Sterlingworth Fox from the 20s that I've used and cleaned for 50+ years in the following manner:

* Multiple passes with a 12ga bore brush soaked in Hoppe's.
* Scrub each barrel with patches again soaked in Hoppe's until clean.
* Wipe the residue out of each barrel with dry patches.
* Run a patch with gun oil down each barrel.

These barrel look no different to me then they did when I acquired the gun over 50 years ago. The barrels still look brand new.

Jim


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I should have included “Sterlingworth Fluid Compressed Steel” in the list of higher quality pre-WWI steels. A Sterlingworth brochure in 1911 mentioned “chrome-nickel and vanadium steel” barrels. “Chromox High Pressure Fluid Steel” was introduced in 1912
https://books.google.com/books?id=eGvdCgAAQBAJ&pg=PA137&lpg

Fred Herbert Colvin, Kristian A. Juthe, The Working of Steel, Annealing, Heat Treating, and Hardening of Carbon and Alloy Steel, 1922
https://books.google.com/books?id=jWNJAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA28&lpg
“Vanadium itself, when combined with steel very low in carbon, is not so noticeably beneficial as in the same carbon steel higher in manganese, but if a small quantity of chromium is added, then the vanadium has a very marked effect in increasing the impact strength of the alloy.....Chrome-vanadium steels also are highly favored for case hardening. When used under alternating stresses it appears to have superior endurance.”

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I follow the same cleaning procedure as Joe Wood, except I do not always use the Frontier pad. Works great.

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Every now n again I use the drill method, to really shine em up.
It still freaks me out a little, lol...but it is so fast n does a hell of a good job
I do like to get the bores well wetted with solvent n leave for a bit, wet again n leave (not dripping wet of course), then have at it.
It sure is a beautiful sight, to look down a freshly cleaned, oiled & shiny, mirror like set of bores, eh?
franc

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That's an interesting 1922 snippet Drew.

It's my understanding that Vanadium makes steel more hardenable by virtue of forming Vanadium carbides. Same with both Chromium and Tungsten.

Curious why this would be sought after in a case hardened application.

Seems like the idea would be to through harden it thus taking full advantage of the alloy.

Remember, Vanadium steel was all the rage after Ford popularized it back then. I bet the Vanadium barrel ad was more fluff than actual content.


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gold40 Offline OP
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Thanks for all the info and response. As a non-technical person, I have remaining questions:

1. Do these different barrel materials have differences in the "surface texture" (or pores?) that would make some harder to thoroughly clean?

2. Do some barrels "retain crud" more than others due to metal composition?

3. Is the amount of barrel interior polishing done by the manufacturer a significant factor affecting cleaning time?

gold40


Last edited by gold40; 11/03/16 11:05 AM.
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Jerry,
1. Yes, at an almost microscopic level.
You can polish sections and see the crumbs that make the cake.
Carbon specs, silica, what not.
2. Yes.
3. Yes. Absolutely.

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Gold,
I would imagine a a new perfectly polished bore would be much easier to keep clean,as long as it was kept in that condition.
A rough new bore with tool marks etc would have places ready n waiting for nasty things to grow n erode.
franc

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They sell bullets impregnated with grit specifically to address the surface finish problem with some manufacturers.

David Tubb's "Final Finish"
It took a rifle I have and made it shootable AND (finally) Cleanable.

Shotguns I don't worry too much, other than as a demonstration of care.

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