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#464580 12/06/16 12:04 PM
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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I am relatively new to the art of color case hardening and work mostly on LC Smith and other double barrels for my personal use. I have colored 2 of these guns with decent success. I am looking for a more accurate coloring with consistent results than just dumping the receiver from a rectangle crucible similar to brownells pipe crucible. Does anyone have any advice in a crucible design, way the receiver needs to hit quench, shielding, etc. I have seen some pretty good results from some on the forum. Thanks in advance

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Reading of oscar gaddys articles in DGJ on the topic would be a good start.

You can try to wade through the posts on this forum on the topic, but well over half the posts you will find are nonsense instigated by one particular member who knows nothing of the process.


B.Dudley
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Here you go, 31 pages of discussion and information.

http://marlin-collectors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3732

Regards
Ken


I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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Thanks for the info. I have looked at Dr. Gaddys articles and know what you mean by the posts on this subject. I am hoping to attain a factory look and know that the way it hits the water is crucial. I have experimented but hate to anneal and recolor more than twice in trying to come up with factory like colors. Hopefully someone will chime in that's figured this out. Any pictures, descriptions, and info is greatly appreciated.

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For your first trial and error experiments blow air through the water in the quenching tank. Also add various amounts of Potassium Nitrate to the quenching water.


The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
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I usually aerate my quench barrel for about 2 hours before quenching the parts and turn it off before I dump the parts. Does anyone use a cage fixture to hold the receiver??? I've never used the Potassium Nitrate. Thanks, Zachary

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I believe potassium nitrate can help create 'blue' colors, a little seems to go a long way. I'd keep track of how much is used, too much might blacken a part. I would definitely suppose, other folks might get different effects.

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Sidelock
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Originally Posted By: hereford
I am relatively new to the art of color case hardening and work mostly on LC Smith and other double barrels for my personal use. I have colored 2 of these guns with decent success. Thanks in advance


Would love to see some pictures of the results - its something i have never tried.

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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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This is one of the ones I've done. Looks fairly decent but doesn't quite look factory. Stock isn't finished in the photo. I am currently building a larger heat treat oven to handle a larger crucible. I am wanting to build a cage to hold the receiver that has built in shielding to hold the coal close to the receiver as it falls into the quench. Thanks for the advice and keep the info coming. Zachary


[url=[URL=http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/zhopkins1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160704_123814_zpsa3tj2ge3.jpg.html][/url]]lc smith[/url]

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Nicely done. Several questions that you can either not answer or be vague as you choose. What temp. did you go up to, how long did you hold it? What temp. did you quench? What charcoal and what % of wood to bone. I have been told that while you don't want bubbles in the water, some movement is desired. Is you crucible lid on tight? Do you knock or take the lid off or dump it into the water? How much water and at what temp. ? What was the minimum amount of pack between the piece and the crucible wall? Do you re-use the charcoal for any reason? Did the blocking you used to prevent warping parts have better colors than the action? I'm just trying to get a system that is repeatable. any input you chose to share will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Mark

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