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Joined: Apr 2011
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Condor Offline OP
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I have an Grant side lever1890's. Several years ago The ejector broke and I sent it to be tig welded and it lasted until this spring. I have attatched a picture. You will note that it broke at the tig weld and also you will see further down the column an old repair with yellowish color. I suspect that was done many years ago and seemed to hold up. My question is since the break is at or near the second repaired tig weld, is this a situation that requires a new column and forget the idea of tig welding again ? I do not do the work so would have to send it out. Would like to just send the part and not the whole gun. Thanks forvany comments .


Last edited by Condor; 06/24/17 08:54 AM.
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I wonder if the yellowish color of the earlier repair indicates that it was a brazed joint. It seems unusual that a braze joint would hold up better than a TIG welded joint. But maybe not if the TIG welded joint wasn't prepared to get full penetration. A good braze joint can easily be stronger than a poor weld joint.

The part looks like it would be fairly expensive to have a new one made, so I think I would have to give the TIG welding another try using a welder who knew what he was doing. Then, if that failed, I would try reproducing just the problematic leg, and weld it on where there is more cross-sectional area. On a job like this, the preparation and set-up is a lot more time consuming than the actual welding.

Here's a link to Hill's Micro-Weld in Meadville, Pa. Bill Schodlatz has used them and posted here several times about the great work they do.

http://www.hillsmicroweld.com/


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Condor Offline OP
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Thanks Keith... very helpful. I will contact Bill and see what he thinks.

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One other point. When you state the leg , I assume we are talking about the column . I notice that the leg or column is not all one piece with the cross section or cartridge beveled hold( poor and probable incorrect nomenclature) . The leg or column looks like it was attatched and all not one piece.

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Since it's been broken & brazed or silver soldered once,,TIG'd and broken once,,and it looks like maybe the tip of the stem was also built up with some weld,,,,I'd cut the entire back half of the stem off.

That'd get you to the thicker forward portion with no old repairs, welds, stresses or needed relief cuts in it.

Splice in a new section there using a overlapping joint for strength and braze it together.
Then recut the back end to match the old profile of notches ect and half round the stem of course.
Use the ejector from the other side as a guide for the profile as well as pics and quick drawings of this broken one.

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Yes, when I refer to the broken section as a "leg", I assume that it what you are calling a "column". Actually, I think it may be more correctly called a rod or pin. And if it was made separately from the ejector blade, which is the section that has the cartridge rim recess cut into it, then it may be best to just make a whole new piece as Kutter suggests. In your photo, it looked as if it was all one piece, which is why I felt a repair might be a lot cheaper than making a new one.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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Condor Offline OP
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All great advice and logical... thanks again. Once completed at some point I will repost with pic of results.

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In this instance I would suggest slicing a new leg on but the joint should be about 1 inch blow the extractor head so that it is not affected by the hardening . Brass brazing should be sufficient unless you have a very good welder . I have done a lot of these with out any trouble . The new leg needs to be a mid grade hardening steel and not hardened past the stop pin cut out .

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Taking Keith advice I contacted Kevin at Hills... he said he would try to micro weld it. ..... or.... I could bring it to a good gunsmith on Cape Cod , but the cost dropped me for that. The Cape guy stated that a new pin might be needed and done as is being suggested , but I want to do it right and wonder if in the long run it would be better to simply ask that it be done with the "Semi" new pin , so to speak. The cost differences are substantial but obviously I do not want to have it done just to end up need the new pin anyway. I will try Kevin first, but I know I might end up needing more difficult and costly work and would pay. Just as an aside can I get any opinion on what a new pin or semi pin might cost as an average just to help me decide. Thanks again...


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