doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Junghans & Kriegeskorte 16ga x 8x57JR drilling

Ford is the below it or do you have the product number?

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018523537/lee-bullet-sizing-die-kit

Cheers,

Raimey
rse

I would highly recommend slugging that bore & seeing just what the groove diameter is before investing much in the bullets. If the grooves run a bit oversize it may well be that .32 WS bullets would be a fit without any manipulation. My old 8x58R Sauer which was technically made for the .318" bullet has grooves which measure .321", exactly the size of the .32 WS bullets. These of course only weigh 170 grains rather than the 200 grains (13 gram).

The Rem Corelock bullet is a good bullet & should not prove overly destructive even at the enhanced velocities from the 8x57J over the .32 WS. Should be able to work up a fine deer load for it IF it should prove workable.

Miller:

Do you mean 0.318"? Those 8X58 1/2R - 170 grain bullets are just gems. Even @ 11 grammes they were the missing piece of the puzzle I needed on an going load development effort.

Cheers,

Raimey
rse

Yes indeed .318, just a typo. I have edited the post. Thanks for catching that Raimey. I have mentioned it before but my barrel is actually marked 172.28 / 59. Except for that one silly little mm (remember those old cigarette Ads), a chamber cast revealed it to be dimensionally an 8x58R Sauer chamber As I said though the groove diameter per slug measures.321" with the bore going about .309", just shy of the next plug gauge size of 156.14 (.310").

Raimey,
That is the item, but you would have to go to Lee instead of Midway, to get a special diameter; or if you have the ability, you can buy the next smaller size and open it up. Take note of 2-piper's comments. Experience shows that a good number of so called "J bore" rifles can use .321" bullets, and some even .323". It is always good to find the groove diameter of the barrel, but it is more important to determine what diameter bullet will easily enter the neck of a fired case( this really shows the bullet can be released, not "jammed" in the chamber). The new "Flex-Tip" bullet for 32 Win. Special has received good press and may be worth a try, even though it only weighs 165 grains. The Remington 8mm Mauser bullet is .3215" and is useable in my 8x57R/360 with .318" grooves. Note: 8x58R S&S and 8x58 1/2R S&S are just two different names for the same cartridge.
Mike

For the 8X48R S&S, 8X58 1/2 R S&S and the 8X57R/360 I have a substitute for the Rottweill Nr. 5 but I am still in search of info for the T 1910 & W 1920 powders.

Cheers,

Raimey
rse

Der Ami;
Good comments there. Trying the bullet in the fired case is very good advice. I recall reading an article in the Rifleman many years ago on this subject. Seems a Gentleman had purchased a pre '68 model 70 Win whey they first became available in .243 Win. He had purchased a lot of 100 new brass for it. He had used this rifle for hunting deer, done a good amount of varmint shooting, Groundhogs mostly as I recall & a bit of informal range shooting. He had worked up a Conservative load & had reloaded these cases many, many times. A few had begun to develop split necks, so he decided to scrap the entire lot & start over.

He got the chance to buy a lot of National Match brass for the 7.62 Nato round (.308) which was, of course, the parent case for the .243.
Even though his load was conservative he dropped his powder charge by a grain or so & using the same bullets, loaded up some for trial. First few shots went well & then one round took the rifle apart. He sent it to the NRA for evaluation (I Doubt they would even do this service now) & they determined the brass in the necks had thickened in being sized down to where they were being wedged in to the chamber neck & could not expand so produced excessive pressure, this one was just more than the gun could stand.

That is indeed extremely good advice you gave to always check the fit of the bullet to be used in the neck of the fired brass prior to sizing it.

Put about 200 shells through the gun today, shooting clays, despite it being 90 degrees. First time I've really had it out in a significant way. The heat ended up overpowering the motor on my wobbler, heh. Hopefully there's no permanent damage!

I have to say, this thing is choked tiiiiiight.

But I am still trying to figure out what to do vis-a-vis sights, for hunting with it. My eyes aren't what they used to be. So to my thinking, this leaves me with 3 or 4 choices:

1. Have someone blind-tap a couple of shallow holes on the rib, to mount a section of 1913 rail to (assuming it wouldn't mess with the automatic rear sight flip-up action). If the rail was removed, the holes could be filled with a couple of blued grub screws, which would hopefully minimize the hit to the gun's collector value.

2. Have someone install claw mounts, and have them make a rail section of some sort that would engage the claw mounts (I'd prefer to use a red dot with a magnifier for hunting-time).

3. Have someone install a fold-down tang sight, but that probably wouldn't last me as I grow older and my vision continues to deteriorate.

4. Forget about it and don't hunt with the rifle barrel (which is my least favorite option).

To my thoughts, option #1 would be the smallest permanent alteration to the gun.

#2 would probably be the most "appropriate" from a historical perspective, although also probably the most expensive and also the largest permanent alteration. I 'spect it would also require a reblue, as I would imagine that soldering on the claw mounts ruins the finish... The reblue in particular makes me want to stay away from this option.

#3 would requite drilling the tang, which I definitely DO NOT want to do under any circumstances.

#4 violates my sensibilities, heh. But if the other options are too severe, then maybe this is the correct option.

What are yourall's thoughts on this? Are there any non-permanent/low-impact options that I'm forgetting about?

Mr.Polecat,
Swing mounts would be a little cheaper than claw mounts and modern ones come back to zero when removed and replaced. New England Custom Guns can do the work. Modern glue is often used now, to avoid soldering and rebluing. It will still be fairly expensive, though.
The chokes are tight, because it was made in the days of fiber wads, before shot collars/cups.
Mike

Hmm, been doing more reading. I don't think tapping the rib would stand up to the recoil; the rib would come loose.

It also looks like the pivot mounts won't work on a drilling, without blocking the view down the rib when the scope is unmounted? I dunno, that just seems to be what a couple places on the internet are saying.

It may be claw mounts or nothing.