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Joined: May 2008
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Sidelock
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This summer has been fairly cool and windy- great for my favorite target a-wing- barn pigeons. I use AA and RST and Federal new shells- plastic no. 8 1&1/8 ounce loads-- and save the hulls. In both my 2 favorite guns for shitbirds awing, both 12 ga. doubles with 30" barrels, in spite of cleaning and storage in a heat lamp gun safe-

I will sometimes find a light dusting of red rust in the barrel breeches- guns are: (1) 1909 L.C. Smith 2E and (2) 1929 Ithaca NID 2E-- Hoppe's and a brass 10 gauge brush removes this "debris", and it doesn't re-appear until after I have shot the specified shotgun. This only happens in the summer- anyone know why?? RWTF[quote][/quote]


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What is your procedure for cleaning, after use, before you put them into the safe, Francis?

SRH


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The seasonal part of it is humidity and warmth, both enhance the rusting. After cleaning, do you stand them on muzzles in the safe? Perhaps your post-shooting oiling is running downhill.


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I shoot a lot in the summer and I use what many refere to as the worst stuff ever put on a gun, WD40! I don't use it as a lube but as a rust preventave. It does build up and makes a film. When it builds up that film is bullet proof, no rust ! Proven in north LA on Browning supers, Citori, and K-80s.
bill

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I have found that this happens more with spherical powders.
Mike


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OK- good question. I run a bronze brush from breech to muzzle on both barrels- then swab with Hoppe's No. 9-- then spray Rem Oil into the breech area, re-assemble, and store in the Browning steel tomb (humidity heat lamp) muzzles down--

Years ago, I recall some skeet shooters using Belgian made Browning O/U's and shooting AA reloads had this "situation" even after cleaning. As I only shoot factory new shells, the issue of "sperical powders" being a culprit may not be pertinent. It is not a big problem, and I enjoy the cleaning process in my gun room/workshop-- just curious, and yes, this is a summertime issue.

By the way, Stan- I enjoyed your observations about the up-coming GA dove season. Yesterday, with the Ithaca 2E and three feedlot farms, I "cut the shitty-birds" a dusty- but boy, howdy- there were tons of doves flying around in the wind- they love the pulverized corn and silage piled all over the feed troughs- so do the raccoons, I nailed 2 of those "banditoes"- with AA target loads- at about 25 feet- And for other farm folks as well as you, I pick up all my empties, and I pitchforked the dead 'coons into a manure spreader-- Damn, wish MI had a legal dove season, I swing through them as they roar by like jet fighters, but that's as far as I can take it--I can sure see why you Southern gents love dove hunting, what a great game bird- but here in MI, I'll have to settle for barn pigeons--

On another note-- My 12 gauge Smiths all have 2 triggers, as does the Ithaca, and the 20 Fox "Sterly"-- Being a confirmed varmint and pistol shot, I am concerned about the trigger pulls on my guns, and I have to say- of the afore-mentioned scatterguns, the 12 Ithaca NID 2E has the best consistent triggers pulls, hands down. Wonder why there is no Ithaca Gun Collectors website?

Hope your coming dove season is all that you expect-- weather and local and then later migratory birds can be a factor, that's for sure. Heck, some of those doves that buzzed me yesterday may well migrate down to your area come Nov.. Give 'em a barrel or 2 for me. RWTF


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Hoppe's is a great solvent, but it has zero rust preventive qualities; it wasn't made to have any. A swab or patch dunked in 30wt. non-detergent motor oil and run thru the bore afterwards will likely prevent what you are experiencing & a tight fitting paper towel 'patch'/wad run thru before use again will remove enough residual oil film for it not to be a worry.

FN Browning's are noted for their ability to almost rust their chambers before your eyes in our humid environs. A motor oil patch after use will prevent it from taking place & its better if you have a chamber brush of some sort to use first. Speaking here to field use and not being able to do a thorough cleaning until later. Petroleum jelly can also be used in that regard to good effect.

If we are honest about it, no plastic body shot shell is as effective from an obturating perspective at it's crimp as a paper hull and once a paper hull 'pin holes' at the brass it too is blowing some hot spent powder gas onto the chamber's wall. Spent powder gas will quickly burn off any slight film protectant, whether the primers are non corrosive or not. Bill's use of WD-40 in that manner may be just what you need. I've not tried it in that manner. I do know it builds up a rather tenacious film and can cause a revolver to lock up if left unattended for an extended period of time, as I've experienced that.

Its been my contention that shooting new Federal paper hulls of the older variety that were made w/the wound paper base wads imparted some of their paraffin to the chamber walls and you didn't get the instant rust syndrome near as quickly, but as Russ was prone to say, I could be wrong.

addendum: there is now a Rem Oil w/a VCI rust preventive in its formulae. I've only seen that in the small 6oz. pump-squirt bottles.

Last edited by tw; 07/26/19 08:51 AM. Reason: adendum
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I have been unimpressed with Rem Oil as a rust preventative, and I live in a mostly dry prairie climate.
I am used to using WD40 rust preventative, as a black powder shooter.
Grease and oil for lube, WD40 wipe down for protection.

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Some years back the Rifleman ran an article on chamber rusting with the, then New, plastic hulls. Their conclusion was the paper hulls which had previously been in use did indeed leave a wax deposit on the chamber walls which protected them.

Plastic hulls left no protection & the chambers were left in a bare & unprotected condition. I believe this very well agrees with TW's comments.

One question on the motor oil. Is there a specific reason it should be non-detergent? Another question, what are the rust protecting qualities of Synthetic motor oils vs the regular mineral oil types.
I use Mobil-1 for lubrication purposes on some items I use regularly with very good results, but am unaware of any synthetic motor oil which is non-detergent.


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Francis, try some Eezox. Having never tried it, I ordered a small package online that contains a little dropper bottle, and can, and a small aerosol.

I have been extremely impressed with it's ability to prevent rust down here in this big sauna of a place.

SRH


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