doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com alkanet oil stain

Advice: I mixed up some alkanet root in linseed oil and the oil has turned a blood-like, semi translucent color. I tried a little on a piece of scrap to see and learn about the process but i think i am not applying it correctly. should i thin the oil with mineral spirts so it penetrates and absorbs like minwax stain or should i must keep rubbing it in coat after coat. it does not seem to penetrate, although the color has deepened with each coating. it takes several days to dry or should i not let it set before applying? the learning curve is steep but this is invaluable eexperience..

thanks for any advice

John

I use root powder in boiled linseed oil and really put it on thick letting the wood take in as much as it likes, wipes off any excess at the end of the day. How much to put on is personal. I use Daly's Seafin on top to harden the Linseed. Works great!

I mix with mineral spirits apply to stock let it soak in and remove excess it's for coloring not filling the pores in, depending on the wood and the color you want multiple application may be needed

Traditional stock finishers "Red Oil" is chopped Alkanet Root left to soak in Linseed Oil for up to eighteen months to attain that unique smell and deep colour. It is best applied to the stock by putting a small pool of oil in the palm of one hand and applying it, then rubbing it in with both hands. Leave to soak in for about an hour then remove any excess with a cloth, repeat after a couple of days until you obtain the colour you require. I have always found that Alkanet root in oil gives a richer and warmer colour than Alkanet root in Turpentine or spirit.

What do you all use as a medium for your stains to get good penetration of stain into the wood? One of my issues is that quite often the finish will re-emulsify the stain, with potential unevenness, and also �burn thru� when rubbing out.

Many finishes utilize mineral spirits as a thinner/solvent, which I find cause the above issue with mineral spirit/oil based stains.

Water based stains can/will raise the grain.

Alcohol based stains?

Others?

Generically, pigment type stains sit on the surface. I think, if a wood surface can absorb a stain, it probably needs to be in the �dye� category. I suspect though, if someone wants to shade match, a stain, of either type, would likely be used on the surface and subject to being cut through. It probably does�t look too good on a stock, it�s certainly disappointing on a table top.

Craigd. Usually using traditional Brit type of stock finish colour transfer from the base colour to the finish is not a problem because each is fully compatible with the other. Saying that it is not a perfect world so whenever I used Oil or water based stains, after allowing the stain to truly dry I use a trick borrowed from a furniture restorer. To isolate the stain in the wood from the top coat with a flash coat of Clear( sometimes known as white French Polish) or Garnet French Polish before applying the finish.

many thanks all.

I think the idea of thinning the alkanet/lindseed is that it soaks in the the wood quicker.i use one third mineral spirits two thirds lindseed oil I have gotten really nice color this was recommended by a friend that had more experience then me so that's what I use nice post by the way.

Here is the way I learned from a well known smith in CT.
Heat the oil until it is almost uncomfortable to handle.
heat the stock as well. Slop on the aklcanet root until
the entire stock is covered and hang it in a dry area for a day. the wood will absorb the oil and become dry in some areas. Repeat the process until the wood won't soak up anymore. Then rub it off with whatever means you prefer. The wood will be an even toned warm reddish color and the grain will be darker. let it dry for a week and apply the finish.