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Joined: Feb 2002
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al Offline
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Is the Sea Fin solution the Seafin Teak Oil or the Seafin Spar varnish?

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SKB Offline
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Teak oil


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

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Whatever you use on the stock, try a little on your cheek before proceeding to make sure you are not allergic to it.

It is no laughing matter. A while back I tried a new kit containing little bottles of lemon and orange oil. Once dry I shouldered the stock a few times to see how it felt.

A few times were enough for an allergic reaction to start and accelerate to the point of needing hospital treatment. Feeling your tongue swell, blocking your breathign is not funny. I am not prone to allergies, this was a first, and hopefully a last time.

So it is artist grade linseed from now on, the devil I know.

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Originally Posted By: SKB
This is the basis for my stock finishing methods:

Wiebe Stock Finishing
Duane widely uses products by Daly's Inc. in Seattle for stock finishing. After sanding to 400 grit, follow these steps:
1. Raise the grain with a weak solution of oxalic acid (a powder), to cleanse and bleach the wood.
2. Apply a solution of Daly's "Ship n' Shore " sealer using alkenet root powder in the ratio of about one 1 1/4 oz packet to a quart...you can "strengthen" as you see fit...maybe up to 50%.
3. Liberally slop on the sealer combo over a period of about 2 hours until the wood will not seem to take more.
4. Wipe off excess with a paper towel and set stock aside for a day or so.
5. Do it again..set aside for a day and do it again. You are tring to get as much finish as possible into the pores.
6. Now...with alkenet root and "Sea Fin" solution, repeat as with "Ship n' Shore"..maybe two or three times. You have come a long way towards filling up those pores!
7. Not done yet!
8. Buy some rottenstone and mix with Sea Fin solution to a tooth paste like consintency and using a piece of felt or a pad from an old t shirt, "scrub" this mixture on the stock across grain. You are filling the pores and polishing as the same trime. Don't let it get too hard, wipe off the excess across grain, being very careful to not allow build up in the nooks and crannies.
9. Do this over and over again until satisfied with the result…typically 20-30 times while allowing a drying time of 24 hours or so between treatments. This is not a quick way, but you will be very proud of the result


How much alkanet with the sea fin? Do you have a pic of the finished process of one?
Thanks Steve

Last edited by battle; 03/13/20 12:58 PM.
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Check out my woodworking and restorations page. Almost every gun except the Fox Sterlingworth restock was done with this method. The fox did not need any alkenet added, plenty red as it was. I use the same ratio of Alkenet root in the oil as the SeaFin. It is not really that critical.


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

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Quite a few people do have allergies to teak oil; Gunsmith Roy Dunlap mentioned this in his book "Gunsmithing". A lot of GIs broke put in rashes on their hands from handling the Japanese Arisakas during WWII. I love its qualities but am unfortunately one who did break out in a rash n my hands from using it to finish a stock, so format also it.s Artist-grade Linseed.

OOPs; sorry, it just hit me the subject was "Teak" oil, "Tung" Oil is the one I was thinking of.


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I have never used Sea Fin teak oil but I just did a walnut bowl with Watch Teak Oil and I was impressed with the hard finish it produced. I don't believe it is make of oil from a teak tree but rather was made to be used on teak. Nothing on the can indicates what the ingredients are beside mineral spirits.


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BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)

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