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#582139 - 10/16/20 01:41 PM Un-doing holes
rocky mtn bill Offline
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Registered: 02/06/08
Posts: 1725
Loc: MT
Most of us have owned barrels that had holes put in them that should never have been there. What is the best approach now for making them go away?
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Bill Ferguson

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#582147 - 10/16/20 02:39 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: rocky mtn bill]
Geo. Newbern Offline
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Registered: 01/02/02
Posts: 7351
Loc: Georgia, USA
Originally Posted By: rocky mtn bill
Most of us have owned barrels that had holes put in them that should never have been there. What is the best approach now for making them go away?


If you are talking about screw holes in the rib, then fill them with blank screws sized to fit. If it is holes in the barrels, like porting, they may can be filled but rust holes in the thin part of the barrel would mean sleeving to me...Geo

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#582149 - 10/16/20 02:53 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: rocky mtn bill]
rocky mtn bill Offline
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Registered: 02/06/08
Posts: 1725
Loc: MT
Thanks, George. I should have said it's rifle barrels I'm discussing here. The holes are for sights or scope blocks.
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#582151 - 10/16/20 03:27 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: rocky mtn bill]
Geo. Newbern Offline
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Registered: 01/02/02
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Loc: Georgia, USA
Originally Posted By: rocky mtn bill
Thanks, George. I should have said it's rifle barrels I'm discussing here. The holes are for sights or scope blocks.


Blank screws then. Several of mine have them...Geo

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#582152 - 10/16/20 03:31 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: rocky mtn bill]
Geo. Newbern Offline
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Registered: 01/02/02
Posts: 7351
Loc: Georgia, USA
Originally Posted By: rocky mtn bill
Thanks, George. I should have said it's rifle barrels I'm discussing here. The holes are for sights or scope blocks.


Blank screws then. I guess you could then weld over them but that seems like overkill to me...Geo

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#582153 - 10/16/20 03:32 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: rocky mtn bill]
rocky mtn bill Offline
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Registered: 02/06/08
Posts: 1725
Loc: MT
Yes, but I don't want to just fill them; I want them to disapppear.
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#582160 - 10/16/20 03:51 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: rocky mtn bill]
Der Ami Offline
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Registered: 07/04/12
Posts: 3563
Loc: East Alabama
Bill,
The best way I have found is to drill a shallow depression( similar to counterbore) with a #28 drill, turn a 6-48 screw/w loctite in, let the loctite set up and cut the head off above the surface and peen the screw tightly into the counterbore; then file flush, polish to match. and blue to match. If you don't drill it( assuming a 6-48 hole), where the thread angle meets the surface will leave a small blemish. This is best for me, because I'm not the best welder in the world, and it leaves a smaller area to re-finish anyway.
Mike


Edited by Der Ami (10/16/20 06:53 PM)

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#582164 - 10/16/20 04:01 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: Der Ami]
SKB Offline
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Registered: 12/31/01
Posts: 5572
Loc: Colorado
I use the same method as Mike when I do not weld them, works well.
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ACGG Professional metalsmith, firearms import services.

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#582165 - 10/16/20 04:27 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: rocky mtn bill]
BrentD Offline
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Registered: 01/21/04
Posts: 5075
Loc: Iowa
I've had some holes welded. Some are better than others. The best are truely invisible and it takes a magician to do it so that the holes do not reappear when blued or cased.
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#582176 - 10/16/20 11:32 PM Re: Un-doing holes [Re: rocky mtn bill]
Kutter Offline
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Registered: 02/05/02
Posts: 1653
Here's a damaged factory rear sight dovetail made to disappear on a customized Savage 3B .22
No welding, just simple tools and techniques.






I cut the filler block a bit small for the dovetail here. But left it plenty high enough. Initial hammering it into shape peened it into the dovetail. Then the excess was coarse filed away before the final peening was done to lock it tightly in place.
That small divot on one edge was left there, slightly deepened and dovetailed with chisels. The swaging process expands the filler block into that area to take care of it.
That's a usable technique when filling an odd shaped area. Push the filler plug around to fill the void instead of trying to make a plug to fit the odd shape of the void to begin with.



Filler expanded and peened solidly in place. Most of the excess filed off. Some left in place for final swaging.



Final swaging into place and rough shape before filing to shape and polishing. This is done with rapid hammer taps and not heavy blows of the hammer. Nothing is distorted on the bbl.
I use a 2oz ball peen hammer, my 'do everything' bench hammer for the work using a few different size flat nose punches.
Sometimes I use a slightly heavier hammer for the first few strikes to 'set' a piece into place.


Finish filed and I think about a 220polish to the area. The rest of the bbl was later polished, some engraving done and the bbl rust blued.


Welding was always hit and miss. Great when it worked, miserable when it didn't.
This is predictable. Blues over and blends in. I use it for screw holes, dovetails, heavy pits, ect.
Inlaying steel into steel is really not that difficult and that is what is done when filling heavy pit marks , dents, ect.
Cut out the bad area and dovetail the edges just like you would if inlaying gold or silver. Then inlay your piece of steel into the pocket.
You must be more careful in the fit of the inlay piece when it's steel than gold or silver.
Plus you must be extra careful when punching in down to swage it into place you absolutely don't hit the base metal,,just the plug. It takes a lot more force to swage the steel into place than gold or silver. Any misplaced hits onto the base metal will leave you with a lot of extra repairs to do along with the one you set out to accomplish!

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