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Looking for advice:
I would very much like to talk to anyone out there who has had experience inletting the bottom metal for rifles with the long single stack type magazine, like this Dutch model, early Mausers (with single stack mags), Commission 88, early Mannlichers, or maybe Nagants. Preferably having done the work from a blank, although that is less important with regards to my questions.

If you think you might have some experience generated advice please contact me and I can detail the challenges as i see them and how you may have addressed them.
Thanks in advance for any input.

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I have not done a magazine as you are, but in similar projects, I've layed out the inletting depth on the metal. Then, all the metal prep above and below is a very subtle diamond leavind a crisp as possible line at the width.

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Originally Posted By: craigd
I have not done a magazine as you are, but in similar projects, I've layed out the inletting depth on the metal. Then, all the metal prep above and below is a very subtle diamond leavind a crisp as possible line at the width.

Thanks Craigd, yes it is best to draft the sides, as this will allow for a better fit as the bottom metal sinks into the stock, as you indicate.

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And, I do apologize for reading the problem wrong, fun project.

edit to add, thanks for the follow up picture and shop solution, I was suspecting it was an alignment issue.

Last edited by craigd; 12/30/20 02:14 PM.
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Originally Posted By: LRF
Looking for advice:
I would very much like to talk to anyone out there who has had experience inletting the bottom metal for rifles with the long single stack type magazine, like this Dutch model, early Mausers (with single stack mags), Commission 88, early Mannlichers, or maybe Nagants.....


I figured out a solution to the question/advice I was discussing above. The question is how to keep the bottom metal aligned and sinking into the stock straight without canting and also knowing when to stop. In the attached pic you can see the none straight condition of the bottom metal floor which make the inletting not straight forward. In addition how do you know when to stop inletting as the distance between the receive and magazine are critical to function.
My solution are two alignment pins and then you will see there is a shoulder on each pin, which controls the final depth and correct position.
Anyway its my solution and yet to be proved as the right solution. smile

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Looks like a good idea to me


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BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)

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A short update: I milled in some of the bottom metal inletting to reduce the workload. Around each screw hole is a counter bore machined to the final floor depth so I will know when to stop. (these are the same as the steps on the brass receiver pins) The metal from where it is now to where it needs to sink to is about 3/8", so now begins the near endless cycles of inletting. Blacken the metal, try fit, remove metal, scrape away the black impressions. smile


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Here's some pics off the 'door' I mentioned that some Mannlicher type actions have when sporterized.
This acts as a clip saver on the sporters.

This one on an '88 sporter. They are all the same idea but sometimes pivot from a different point to take advantage of a placement that affords the best/easiest way to fabricate for that particular action.

This '88 pivots the door at the extreme back end of the mag box and uses an extra thin flat spring that is added to the magazine. That spring extends back into the trigger guard and is attached to the inside bottom of the bow and out of the way.


Close fitting door with 'ears' that fit into cutouts in the bottom edges of the magazine.


Door pulled partially open, It's actually sitting on the high point of the rear edge before going over center on the spring.


Door all the way open and spring tension 'over center ' keeps it open in this position for you.


The back edge of the door bearing on the thin flat spring that powers the door open and shut.


That's the other end of the spring. It enters into the trigger guard inside the bow and is secured there. Rounded and polished.

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Also, and my apologies for being late with this.
The trigger guard conversion done on the Romanian Model 93 Sporter I have for DST's.


Front 1/2 of orig trigger guard was left in tact.





Rear half of TG is a shotgun style and has a bolster/hook added to link it to the front orig half through a rectangular hole cut in the front section.


The hook simply sets into place in the front section and draws down in place as the rear guard tang is put in place in the inlet in the wood like any other shotgun guard.



When it's full down in position & the tang screw installed the joint where to two pieces come together is very tight. No movement and very hardly noticable.


Makes for a nice trigger guard appearance I think.

I've seen the same technique on a Steyr M95 (straight pull) 8x50R sporter that I owned. and recall it on some other German and Austrian Steyr type actioned sporters that I've seen over the years.

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Thank you Kutter for the posting and pictures.
The pictures of the trapdoor style mag cover are quite interesting. I had seen the trigger guard implementation previously but not to the high detail you provided.
The issues for my project have been the implementation of both the mag cover and the double set triggers improvements. The cover spring has been the most significant issue.

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