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Originally Posted by battle
I knew what you meant Stan.

I did too after the first clarification-- or at least that it wasn't the same thing as a covered pad. I thought in your initial post that you were looking for a printed resource instead of an online tutorial.

Incidentally, I think Shotgun Technicana only shows leather covering procedure, not facing.


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I'm more concerned with how the edge of the leather presents than any other aspect. Having never seen a pristine original example I am only going on abject thought. But, having seen how my first attempt came out I would think that a "crimped" edge, as opposed to a cut edge, would present much better. Are there any leather working tools that cut with something like opposing cutter wheels, or even something like a pipe cutter that has a cutter wheel pressing against a flat wheel?

This idea is kinda hard to put into words, but I can see it in my head. Does anyone understand what I'm talking about?


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I'm thinking your primarily having trouble with the raw looking edge of the cut leather.

Depending on how thick the leather is (no reason to use super thin leather I would think) you could burnish the edge like you would on a knife sheath. that would probably give a clean edge, regardless of how you cut it


Would an edge like this be better than what you currently have? (obviously with one layer instead of 3)
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Last edited by Woodreaux; 01/21/21 10:32 PM.

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Originally Posted by Woodreaux
Would an edge like this be better than what you currently have? (obviously with one layer instead of 3)

Probably, but how would you burnish the edge of a piece of leather as thin as we're talking about? A crimped edge would eliminate having to burnish it, if that's possible.

SRH


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I have a 1926 lc smith lw with a leather faced pad don't know if it is factory or not

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You could cut it with a cutting wheel that is used to cut material for sewing (and paper patches for shooting). For sale and any fabric shop or Walmart. It will cut like you want, but won't make much difference.

You could try to burnish the edge, but if will probably be too thin to do much.

There are also leather edge skiving tools that are easily found for rolling an edge. That may be more useful.

I would probably use 3M's Super 77 spray adhesive for this instead of barge cement. A bit easier to get a nice cleanly adhered edge without any runover of glue.


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I'd check with a leather shop. Bet they'd have your answer.

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if you're facing it, why would the leather need to be super thin? couldn't you use a little thicker leather (3-4oz maybe), glue it on, trim and sand the edge to a perfect fit, then burnish the edge to finish it? The picture you linked to looked like the leather was substantially thicker than what most people use for covering.

I'd be willing to bet that's part of the reason they were faced on the first place. heck of a lot easier to glue leather to one face than it is to wrap it around curves, and covers the screw holes without plugs too since it's applied after the pad is in place.

if you want the edge of the leather to roll down onto the pad so that there is no exposed edge, I think you'll want to use a skiving knife the taper (or skive I guess) the edge and allow the rough side to tuck under. That's how they do high end leather seems and edges that would be too thick otherwise


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I think if you cut your leather to the shape of the pad. Then mark a line parallel to the edge on the back side and skive from that line to the edge. When you glue the cover on use a smooth wooden handle to push that edge down so it virtually disappears.

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Originally Posted by Mark II
I think if you cut your leather to the shape of the pad. Then mark a line parallel to the edge on the back side and skive from that line to the edge. When you glue the cover on use a smooth wooden handle to push that edge down so it virtually disappears.
Mark II has the concept.

The only decent looking leather faced pads I have seen were either done with very thin leather or had the edges skivied extremely thin. Winchester offered leather facing on pads that had faces square to the pad (like SW Silvers pads before they were ground). If you wanted a pad with rounded edges the leather was pulled down to approximately 1/16 " above the base of the pad but did not tuck under the pad as is commonly seen on British guns

As to glue, a friend of mine was shooting a CSMC 21 with the Winchester style rounded edge leather faced pad (installed by CSMC) @ the Metford WI SxS shoot on a rainy day & leather facing came off on the third station. It looked like the leather facing was installed with a white glue like Elmer's. If I was going to do a leather faced pad I would use Barges or the original non VOC version of Plio Bond contact cement.

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