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I agree with both sentiments: using a gun-appropriate technique would appeal to me, regardless of whether it's easier, better, etc. So I would probably try to face a pad for a gun that a faced pad would be 'correct'

Also, I agree that covering would probably be almost as easy as facing, especially if you skive the edge, which will take some tools, skills and practice. Having covered one pad, I would say that it's fairly straightforward and doable for a relative novice (like me).


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Originally Posted by BrentD
I think folding the skived edge under without puckering and while following the exact edge of the pad will be every bit as challenging as a full cover and maybe more. It will be interesting to see.


Why would he need to fold the skived leather? And fold under what?

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I've no intention of folding the edge. They weren't done that way, as far as I've been able to determine from pictures of originals.

My goal with the skiving will be to end up with a thinner edge, which will look much more finished.

SRH


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If you are not going to fold under, then I would burnish before skiving. Anything to keep fibers and roughness developing from wear.


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If Barge cement is the recommended adhesive for this, wonder why Cole uses contact cement? I'm thinking that contact cement may be better for facing a pad, too, because it dries before you put the leather in place and there would be little to no glue line. It is so important to get the edge glued well. If you put enough glue like Barge, or Duco, to be sure the edge is glued secure you will see a glue line.

I think it's going to take a good bit of experimenting to come up with the best solutions for leather, glue and edge treatment.

SRH


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Stan that's why I would use the 3M Super77

Contact cement, like Barge (which is simply a well known version of contact cement) is usually applied to both surfaces, allowed to skin and then compressed together. I think that will be a little tricky for this application, although you have a well defined edge to your pad which will help.


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That Super 77 does say it has a transparency when dry, but I don't see it available in anything other than aerosol I couldn't seem to find it available in any other application methods. Overspray could be an issue with aerosol.

SRH


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Originally Posted by Stanton Hillis
That Super 77 does say it has a transparency when dry, but I don't see it available in anything other than aerosol I couldn't seem to find it available in any other application methods. Overspray could be an issue with aerosol.

SRH



Well, the finished leather is easy enough to spray before you mount it. If you are going to spray the pad, then blue tape is your friend.


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I have leather faced quite a few pads, and pretty much all of my own guns have a leather faced pad. I mostly use pigskin, but any thin leather should work; I don't think it has to be super thin, my pig is about probably .025 - .030 or so. You need to sand off any markings on the pad and I think you need to round slightly the edges of the pad, so there is no proud edge to catch. Sanding , or wiping to get the mold release off gives good adhesion. I just use Barge and apply it liberally to both pad face and the oversize leather, soak it in well, kind of saturating the leather, let it dry a bit and apply it, pound around the leather with your leather mallet. When dry use a sharp! exactor knife or such to carefully cut the leather around the pad, keeping the knife pretty much parallel to the side of the pad. You can use 120 grit sharp paper to carefully sand the edge, and If you have stained your leather, you need to re-stain the cut edges, You can use an acrylic finish (Tandy's) if you wish or just finish like you shine your shoes. Maintenance is more shoe polish. I have never had one of my own come loose, and don't hesitate to put the gun in a snow covered gunrack. Works just as well as fully leather covered, but much less work, but lacking the "cool" factor, of course.
Some good-looking pads shown here.


Dennis Potter
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I appreciate very much you sharing your insight and experience, Dennis. I may be overthinking the whole affair, fretting too much over how the edge looks. Having never seen an original in person I was in the dark about how the edge should be finished. I trust your judgement. And, I kinda think a higher quality piece of pigskin will result in a nicer edge than the leather from Grandad's old duck hunting coat did.

My 20 Sterly Ejector, with the "Grandad pad", will be riding in the upright rack again tomorrow afternoon on the quail rig, albeit without the snow. smile And, when the 16 ga. AE gets home from Dewey's it will get a leather facing on it's pad, too. I love the looks of them, and the practicality.

Thanks again, Dennis


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