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Joined: Sep 2016
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Sidelock
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I've been looking for a source to learn about stock making without a pantograph / duplicator. Everything I have found so far describes starting with a semi inletted blank.

Do any of you know of a book or other resource that describes the process of Inletting by hand from the blank?


Jim
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Having a milling machine would be a huge help. Basically you make slightly under sized templates to match your top and bottom tangs and then mill each side staying a bit short of your target in both depth and width. I would start with something simple to get the idea, a 1895 Winchester or something similar would be a great first project. It could be done with a drill press or router as well with a bit of careful set up. Building from a blank is a great way to learn to most important aspects of stock making. Do you have Westbrook's book?


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Steve has a lot more experience than I do, BUT I think the spindle speed on a standard “Bridgeport “type mill would be too slow for wood. Yes it will cut, but you will get a lot of splintering. Think most wood routers have spindle speeds in the 10-20,000 RPM range, the highest speed on my Bridgeports is 2700 RPM.

The other issue would be indexing correctly; I have seen blanks where the upper and lower tang cuts were .050 off.
If making quality blanks were easy, everyone would be doing it .

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Thanks Steve. I do have his book. I'll have to dig into it a little more. I haven't looked closely recently, but I think that I remember that he starts with a semi inletted stock.

Mike, good news is that I don't have a mill (yet), so I would be using a drill press or router anyway. I'm certain that you are correct about stock making being a challenge.

Last edited by Woodreaux; 02/08/21 09:31 AM.

Jim
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I'm not sure if I still have my handouts from TSJC on stocking a mauser from a blank or not, I will see if I can find them for you in the next couple of days. We used bridgeport mills in school and while they do not have the speed my duplicator has it did work fine. To build a good quality stock from a blank takes time, especially if you are learning as you go. The great thing about Westbrook's book is his attention to proper stock geometry and shaping which carries over to double guns and good layout in general. This is the first gun I stocked and the only gun I have done from a blank, my gunsmithing project pictured here with a small Chamois taken on a DIY hunt in New Zealand.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Woodreaux, I have done several stockings of guns from a blank but don’t even pretend to do the quality work that Steve and many others do., I’m just a hobbyist. But, if you go to assra.com and become a member of the forum you can see a complete scratch built 44 1/2 I am building. It is under gunsmithing “Stevens 44 1/2 build” currently it is 5 pages back, I’m bobw there. In the post I show basic stocking with photo, all completed with hand tools. In that forum you can read but will not see photos unless you are a member, will take a couple days to become a member. Stocking from scratch does not take lots of machines but lots of patience and persistence.
Bob

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On the accuratereloading forum there is a great set of pictures making a rifle stock from a blank using only hand tools.

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Jim, Alvin Lindens series of booklets has a detailed section on inletting from a raw blank. I have 3 of the books, if you send me your address I'll send them to you.


I learn something every day, and a lot of times it's that what I learned the day before was wrong

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Thanks to all of you for the info and the offers. the stock you did looks great Steve, and I'd love to see the pamphlets. James, I'll send you a PM.


Jim
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Woodreaux I make stock from blanks all the time without semi inletting. Step one is lay out the blank so that you can achieve all the required dimensions.
Next, saw cut the end of the blank to match the angle of the back of the reciever and also saw the shape of the tang. Clamp the blank in a vise and lay the reciever on the
on the cut tyiu made for the tange and trace it out with a scribe. Then it is only a matter of chiseling everything out until the receiver prints on the blank like you would want it to.
You will need a good stock clamp to get the receiver to pull back into your tang cuts and position itself the same way every time.
Once the receiver is inlet then clamp the receiver in place and lay the floor plate on the black and repeat the process. I know this is all very general but that is basically how it goes

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