Since Bill's thread was torpedoed, I'd like to restart the discussion. Here's the question: in your opinion, is fancy stock finish storage necessary or do you just leave your finish in the container it came in? If you use a different method or know of one that sounds like a good idea, what is it?
Bill suggested that a screw through the lid of a can / jar allows access without fully opening the lid. I noticed in the Purdey video, that James MacDonald uses an old gatorade bottle that looks like it has been around for a few decades. Other gunmakers that I've seen use squeeze bottles with tapered spouts. A woodworking blog somewhere suggested squeeze ketchup bottles with Bloxygen to remove the o2.
Personally, I have kept my home-made slacum brews in glass bottles-- smaller bourbon bottles mostly-- and I recently bought some small brown glass bottles with droppers so that I could easily add a few drops to the stock. (I'm thinking that oxygen is not as big of an issue for slacum, since it is slow to polymerize anyway.)
The StopLoss bags look like the most effective method of keeping air out. But a little difficult to dispense in small volumes, since you pour out what your going to use each time. For an oil finish requiring many applications, this seems like it would be wasteful.
Woodreaux, It takes two screws. One for the finish to exit and the other to keep the presure equal to atmosphere. Replace the screws promptly before much air intrudes. The stoplose bags look like a really good solution. Can we google up a source?
Woodreaux, It takes two screws. One for the finish to exit and the other to keep the presure equal to atmosphere. Replace the screws promptly before much air intrudes. The stoplose bags look like a really good solution. Can we google up a source?
You are neither compressing the air or creating a partial vacuum when you decant part of your bottle of Linspeed Billy. The volume of air that comes into the bottle is exactly the same as the volume of finish that was removed. It makes no difference whether the liquid was poured out of a screw hole in the cap, or if the entire cap was removed. Either way, if you pour out some fluid and promptly reseal the bottle, the same amount of air enters the bottle. The only slight variables might be storage temperature, atmospheric pressure due to altitude, or relative humidity that may accelerate or retard finish degradation. Some years ago, I had a bottle of Linspeed that was very slow to set up and harden. I assume there was insufficient dryer in that batch.
With few exceptions, whether you are storing paints, finishes, gunpowder, food, pharmaceuticals, chemicals, gasoline, ect., the best conditions are cool, dark, and dry. Heat, light, air, and moisture are the storage conditions to avoid.
It couldn't be simpler. But now we have someone who calls Conservatives "Science deniers" repeatedly in denial of some very simple science. Just more evidence that Liberalism is a mental disorder. Time for you to shed some more crocodile tears, and have another hissy-fit... just because someone recognizes the fallacy of your silly notions.
A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.
Somewhere, I acquired a bag of cheap marbles for the purpose of minimizing air in finish cans or bottles. There were purpose made for this I believe. Anyway they are a huge PITA and do not solve the problem well enough to bother with.
Woodreaux, It takes two screws. One for the finish to exit and the other to keep the presure equal to atmosphere. Replace the screws promptly before much air intrudes. The stoplose bags look like a really good solution. Can we google up a source?
I just don't buy this method. I can't remember if a particular type of screw was specified in the other thread, but even if it were possible to keep a partial vacuum on the inside of the can when replacing the screw, which it's not, a screw through the lid of a can is not going to be air tight. Even the slightest vacuum, from the removal of a bit of finish, will be replaced by air eventually seeping around the screw threads. Nature abhors a vacuum, and a wood, or machine, screw through a thin piece of sheet metal won't prevent the equalization of pressure, IMO.
My method has always been simple, though not perfect. Store the container upside down after opening, and reclosing. As the air goes up any film forms in the bottom of the container and doesn't hinder removal of finish next time. As I said, it's not the perfect answer, as you still lose finish to "filming", but it seems to help me.
I like Keith's idea of using some other gas to purge most of the oxygen from the container. If someone would package and sell one of those workable gases in an aerosol can, with the little red tube to stick in the nozzle, it seems like it would be a simple and quick solution.
The thing I see as an issue for me with the StopLossBags would be storage. They appear to have to be stored laying down flat, as I don't see how they could stand upright stably. It would require drawer storage for me, which I am woefully short on. I'd much rather keep the finish in it's original container if possible. It's flat bottomed for a good reason.
I think there are fancy gizmos for recorking wine without oxygen. You could look into those. Frankly, I don't see a problem at all with Stop Loss bags and they look like they will stand well enough to sit in my shop cupboards. I don't see how Bill's 2-screw method requires a vacuum.
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