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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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In the past I have done some Hot Salts Blacking, Express (Hot) rust blue & the traditional cold rust blue. While the cold rust process is stretched out over several days I found it to be the easiest & was my preferred method.

All the essential equipment needed is a container large enough to hold the barrels covered with water & enough heat to boil the water. You will of course have to card the formed rust after boiling. This is ideally done with a fine wire brush rotating at a relatively slow speed, but for limited use can be done with a hand brush or even steel wool.


Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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This is obviously a slow motion project, but I ran into a question and thought I could give an update.

The option I chose was to use the guns as learning guns. Since I bought both Ithacas in a lot with a pristine condition AyA no.2 for about $2k at auction, I figure they were nearly free. What I decided to do was use the barrel from the poor condition gun to make a two-barrel set.

What I've done / learned so far on the "custom, deluxe two barrel ithaca 200e" project (with many thanks to members here who have been extremely helpful along the way):

- forend tip inlay. I used horn and had quite a time figuring out how to address the loss of wood at the edge of the inlay channel.

- grip cap shaping. Same horn as the tip. needs final touch up.

- oil finish. Using a home brew red oil & slacum, rottenstone, and lots of hand rubbing. Also had to address some gun oil saturation along the through bolt hole.

- barrel fitting. Smoked in to fit the bites to the bolt.

To be done:
- rust blue both sets of barrels.
- dress screw slots and blue heads.
- Fit a new recoil pad. probably leather covered.
- Restore a leather, two-barrel gun case from vL&A


Here's the question: I put the action back on the stock and noticed a couple of things. Initially the fit was poor. I swapped the through bolt from the other gun and was able to get the head to snug up. But.... with the head properly seated, I could see heretofore unseen hairline cracks in the head, in the typical skb/ithaca spot. When I finally get ready to list the gun, I will certainly disclose the cracks, but my question is whether these hairline cracks should be addressed structurally before selling (thus my posting in this same thread).

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

What do y'all think?


Jim
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fix hit and sell wid no regrets...


keep it simple and keep it safe...
1 member likes this: Woodreaux
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Sidelock
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Adding a pad and changing the grip cap will lower value IMHO.

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For selling it, I would certainly include the original plastic grip cap and white spacer if someone wanted it. same for the plastic buttstock plate. I just personally find them to be unattractive and cheap looking.


Jim
Joined: May 2006
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Thought I would chime in on this subject since I have some experience with these guns. First, the stocks frequently crack around the scalloped frame inlets. I would always glass bed these stocks for that reason. But even when they are glass bedded they will crack if the stock nut is over tightened. There is a sweet spot of tightness. There should be a lock washer under the nut and a flat washer that sits on the wood. I would also use loctite, the weakest, I forget the color. If the stock gets loose and is shot the stock will likely crack. The wood they originally used was I believe to be Japanese walnut and isn't as strong as black walnut. Second, I'm sorry that you broke up a functioning gun to get the barrels. There have been some unfinished SKB barrels on ebay for some time now. I bought a set myself in 28" for a 200E. You could get these barrels and you would have to make ejectors for them there by furthering your training, not to mention the fitting and blueing. They are not that expensive either. Third, many of these guns where black chromed and that has to be removed before blueing. I don't know if it can be chemically removed without damaging the steel or not. I don't know how you could sand it off in the lettering and rib matting. Hope this info guides you in your project.

.

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The second gun would have needed restock (or major repair), tightening the action, and metal refinishing. So it was functional... but very tired. it wasn't a case of getting the barrels so much as salvaging parts. Would have learned a lot going the other direction as well, I guess


Maybe it was the wrong decision. It's hard saying, not knowing


Jim
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My SKB 200E 20 gauge never cracked, and wasn't black chromed. Not saying others weren't. I'm sure they were. Mine served me well for several years, killing my first two western quail in AZ, Gambels, among other gamebirds. It now is in the custody of a dear friend who will care for it and use it.

[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]


May God bless America and those who defend her.
1 member likes this: Woodreaux
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My 12 ga cracked like 90% (estimated) of the others I’ve seen

I would leave as is. Mine was my fathers and that is the only reason I keep it.

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Many if not most o/u SKB's had the hard chrome finish. I have yet to see a sxs that way. Not saying they didn't just the dozen or more I have been around, none were chrome outside. All bores were chromed.

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