doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com Broken stock glue questions

Ok I have a 12 ga FW field in 90+% condition with the exception of a stock break.

Man I took a chance and hopefully am not going to pay for it. I knew the stock was cracked when I bought it. It is 1949 gun with exc bluing and CCH and original wood finish. Well in disassembly to fix the stock I found that it is broken-broken. The top half of the stock head is completely separated from the lower half. That is the bad news. the good news is there is no oil in the head and the break is clean. On one side I can fit the two halves together and not even seethe crack and can barely see it on the other side. It is basically split right down the middle of the plate inletting from front to back.

My question is what is the consensus on the best glue or epoxy to fix this kind of break and what other steps after getting the two halves back together but prior to glass bedding would you recommend?

Many thanks

I have used both epoxy and glue. Rarely use epoxy anymore, now use Titebond II with excellent results. It will work very well for the break you described.

A photograph of the break would be extremely helpful though from what you describe some pining of the joint may also be of help in providing a good sound repair. As for adhesive's my preferred type is slow set Epoxy (this adhesive takes the rush and angst out of getting the joint assembled perfectly, also giving time for cleaning up) because it has been in common use for some sixty years now and still holding stock repairs together in the case of my own guns fifty years. More modern types of adhesives have not been around long enough to prove to me that things wont fall apart in the future.

Sounds like a good place for the hidden reinforcing staple procedure, too.

Another vote for slow setting epoxy. I have been using G-flex lately, a toughed epoxy designed for wooden boat repair. I agree that a hidden pin or staple would be a big benefit.

Second on G-flex. I used it to repair sailboat ribs that were cracked and it has worked fine since.

Local West Marine had G-flex. I purchased some of it and some disposable syringes.

I mixed a dollop to see the consistency and how it sets up. Pretty runny so this is truly more glue like than glass bedding like. Should be pretty easy to use out of the syringe so I should beo get some good control over placement. I cannot imagine it would be good for glass bedding like acgra glass jell.

One of the things it says on the label is that it will glue up wet or resinous woods. Maybe it will tolerate a little bit of oil.

Will probably glue up tomorrow but I am still formulating the approach to apply and best clamping angles.

Thanks for the suggestions

If it is not to late, a gun stock is rather a difficult shape to use clamps on. I recommend strips of bicycle inner tube is used because it molds to any shape and the tighter you pull it, the higher the clamping force also glue has great difficulty in sticking to it also.

West Marine epoxy products are first class. I have used them before with great results. The one I used on a boat poured as easily as thin syrup. It was their 105 epoxy resin, and combined with the 206 slow hardener was the ticket for our needs. How fast or how slow the epoxy sets can often be controlled, with the same epoxy product, by which speed hardener you use, and sometimes by the amount of hardener, as is the case with working fiberglass resin and catalyst, according to the ambient temperature and whether or not you are working in shade or direct sunlight. WM offers slow, medium and fast hardeners for their 105 resin.

Please let us know how the G-flex worked out for you.

I have had good results using long pieces of surgical tubing wrapped around the stock at all angles to hold it for the glue to set. Same basic technique as damascus uses, but with a little different product.

The advice damacus gave is "right on", just be careful of the edges at inletting. You may want to put blocks in or use the guns frame and trigger guard, well treated with release agent though.
Mike

I do have surgical tube and will plan on gluing up and using the frame, side-plates and trigger plate (all stripped) to help me keep things in good shape. I hope to do this this weekend and will report back progress,

The stock is glued up and now I am just waiting for the solid cure time. By Mid-day tomorrow I am guessing. I kept the balance in the cup so I can see how that hardens for idea when ready to loose the bands.

A couple observations on the G-flex:

I mixed it up in a cup and was able to easily pour it into a disposable syringe.

It was liquid enough to pour. and inject with the syringe but once it was laid down on a mating surface it did not migrate too far. Consistency is between acra-glass and acra-gel.

It gave me plenty of time to insert the frame, trigger plate and both side plates.

Any excess on gun and/or hands cleaned up real nice with some acetone.

So far I like it. it takes a full day to cure so not a fast product but certainly one that gives you time to get it all together calmly.

If all works well then I am going glass bed it and then be ready to make some smoke.

I pulled the surgical tubing today and overall I would say a great success. It was pretty knarly break but it feels real solid and after finish one side will nit be visible at all and the other side just barely. You could see 100 squish out (barley though) and epoxy is hard enough that you cannot dent it with a fingernail but it has just a bit of flex that it should absord any future stresses.

I absolutely would recommend G flex epoxy.

The thing I found interesting about G flex is how far the product will bend but not break. I left some to dry on a tongue depressor and was shocked how far I could bend it and not a single crack developed.

yes I kept what was left in the cup and it made a very hard but flexible disc. Thx for hook up.

Damascus, Ernie ,
What epoxy do you personally use here in the UK?
I have used Titebond 2 and Pratley , but always interested in what others use .
When I was in F1 I used a two pack that we used for gluing carbon fibre together from a company in Cambridge . It was a brilliant adhesive and I believe a stock that I repaired in 1985 is still going strong .

Hi Salopian as far as Epoxy Adhesives are concerned I only use the ones that I know are stable and have a long life in service, standing the test of time. I have always used "Araldite Standard" this being a slow set type having about 60 to 80 minuets open time so long enough to get things set up right especially gun stocks, for a fast set version I do use "Araldite Crystal Clear" it works well and it is clear. I can remember when the Araldite brand hit the market in the early 1960s and it is still in the top number of Epoxy Adhesives used. For normal wood working I prefer to use "Cascamite" powder Epoxy adhesive don't hold much store in those PVA potions fine in the dry but lacking in the damp.
As you see Salopian I am rather old school when it comes to Adhesives.

I believe Stan is referring to West Systems epoxies, West Marine is a retailer that caters to boaters.

Having said that, West Marine carries West System products.

Damascus, I agree that Araldite does take some beating . Western Resins stock a lot of epoxies including GFlex so we can experiment if need be . Are we the only two left using Cascomite?

You are quite right, Rob. thank you for the correction. There may be other retailers than sell West Systems epoxy. I got the similar names confused. I ordered the West Systems from West Marine.

Thanks again!

Well Salopian we do not live in the parts of the country where boats and sailing are foremost activities though they do say Birmingham in your part of the world does have more canals than Venice. Cascomite is still a firm favorite Adhesive with the wooden boat building fraternity nearer the sea, also people like my self who build furniture still favor it even though it does have one short coming it does take an age to set in the cold though when it is set it is set for life..