doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Water displacing oil…

Does anyone know a good or better than alternative to brownells WDO? It’s rarely in stock for some reason.

Anyone used CRC- 6-56 before?
Du-lites WDO?

LPS 1, 2, or 3. I have the most experience with 2.

Another vote for LPS 2.

How does one tell if an oil is “water displacing”? I seem to recall WD40 is some sort of water displacing product.

LPS2

Strong, multi-purpose lubricant and penetrant with added corrosion protection. Provides a nondrying, light, oily film for use on indoor/outdoor equipment. Reduces wear caused by friction and corrosion. Displaces moisture Loosens rusted or frozen parts. Provides up to one year of protection. Nonconductive Safe on paint and most plastics. Inverta Spray Valve allows user to spray in an upright or inverted position. NSF® H2 registered

I’ll definitely check into LPS2. Sounds like good stuff.
Thank you for the recommendation.

Dustin

Everyone makes fun of and tells horror stories about WD-40, and how it “gums up” over time. I’ve used the stuff for 50 years on dozens of applications with zero problems. Go figure.
JR

Me too. I use it all the time. I have gallons of the stuff. Mainly use it for cleaning & polishing. It’s just not what I’m looking for in this application. The main ingredient of Wd being naphtha, it has always made a great cleaner for shotgun barrels.

For decades I have purchased WD-40 in one gallon cans and used in for untold purposes. I have seen videos of numerous places in Europe and there is a can of WD-40 on the work benches.

Your comment that people make fun of it reminds me of what I saw of another product that is made fun of---the Asian 7 inch metal lathes. For those of you who have the video "A LOOK INSIDE HOLLAND % HOLLAND you will see one of the 7 inch Asian lathes on one of the craftsmen's work bench--it is apparently his personal lathe.

Stephen Howell

WD40 seemed to be one of the first casualties of the internet to "alternative facts". It works fine. WD stands for water displacement as I understand it, and I use it for that purpose with great success when cleaning all guns but particularly blackpowder guns that are cleaned with dihydrogen oxide first.

I understand. You need a product with higher film strength and durability.
JR

It does what it says on the tin, used extensively on off shore oil rigs here and never found anything to better it.

No longer available. That can in your photo looks to be 20 years old.
JR

Every try Boeshield? Developed by Boeing Aircraft, it's a favorite with the old reel restoring & flyfishing crowd.

https://boeshield.com/

Boeshield is ok, but, in my experience, leaves a lot to be desired as a lubricant/rust preventative.
JR

Yes the can is old well you do not use this by the pint, I just fill a trough that is just long and wide enough to put a barrel set in after bluing then cover with it leave for an hour drain barrels then pour what is left back in the can. As they say never judge a book by the cover I downloaded this Castrol sheet from the net DWF is still in production.

It's not available anywhere I searched online. That tech sheet means nothing as far as availability. If Amazon doesn't list it...
JR

WD-40, when used in conjunction with oil, causes the light components in the oil to evaporate along with the evaporative elements in the WD-40. What is left behind, after time, is varnish.

Use either, alone, and you would never know. Use them together, and you get problems.

Best,
Ted

Never happens to me. Not in the last 30+ years anyway.

I have several gallons of CRC SP 250 Corrosion Inhibitor that is supposed to be a water displacing lubricant. It seems to be good stuff on guns and tools, and I have even used it mixed with Dexron ATF, Boiled Linseed Oil, and diesel fuel to spray my truck frame and undercarriage to prevent rust from road salt.

You have not said what you are using it for, but knowing that you are doing slow rust bluing, I would be careful if you are using it on freshly blued guns. I have noticed that the converted oxide in rust bluing is not super tightly bound to the metal for a while. Some rust preventive oils I have used to prevent after rusting seemed to actually remove a bit of the black oxide. I see it on the cloth when I wipe off the excess. So I use non-detergent motor oil for that particular application.

Since nobody has responded to the question about CRC 6-56, I will....In my youth, I worked in a boatyard on Md's eastern shore. Many times i used CRC 6-56 to spray the insides of wet distributor caps and rotors, spark plug wires, etc. CRC 6-56 came through every time, turning a non starting engine into a starting engine. Its good stuff.

Mergus

The oil is going to be used to drive moisture from in between the ribs on barrels I work on that have leaking ribs that aren’t bad enough to warrant the expense of a full strip and relay.
I use non detergent compressor oil for curing.

I think I’ll give lps-2 a shot.

I use WD40 around the house and shop, but have been advised to keep it off vintage guns as it may harm a casehardened finish.
Obviously, I have not experimented in that regard. Any other opinions?

Total BS. 100%.