doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Milling a rim Cutout on an O/U ejector

I am replacing an ejector (top) on an SKB 28 ga. The ones I have fitted before have had the rim already set up and only required fitting. This one (28 ga) came in without the cutout; I just noticed it or I would have sent it back to SKB. Cannot figure out how to do that. I don't have a milling machine, only a milling attachment for a Southbend 9" lathe and have not checked to see if I have an end mill of the correct size.) Thanks Gil

Might be possible to rent a chamber reamer fro Reamer rentals. These typically have rim cutter incorporated. Take it very slow and apply side thrust to keep cutter in extractor. Otherwise Clymer may be able to make you one with a piloted guide.

Gil, Not sure what your ability is as far as machining but if you have a 4 jaw chuck or face plate you may be able to mount the ejector in or to one of these and cut the rim groove with a standard lathe tool. Going to take some thought to get a solid mount and take light cuts but I think it would be doable...

WBLdon

There are a couple of 28 gauge chamber reamers with rim cutter and pilot floating around the PGCA forum. The reason is that early 28 gauge Parkers had smaller than normal rim recesses that needed to be enlarged. I did my first 28 gauge Parker on a Bridgeport vertical mill, right angle setup. It was a nightmare that I don't want to repeat. A PGCA member responded to me and offered to lend me his reamer. I don't remember his name. The Clymer reamer I borrowed made the rim cut a five minute job.

Gil,
I have done a couple rim recesses with piloted counterbores. Turn a new pilot to fit the chamber and grind a slightly larger counterbore t the diameter of the rim recess. If you don't have a toolpost grinder, you can "rig" a hand grinder in the milling attachment to make one. I find that 4 or 5 small cutoff discs(trued) stacked on the handpiece makes a satisfactory grinding wheel. I turn the work backward and the grinder forward, but friends disagree with that. Cover the bed and dovetail surfaces well. Use a piece of sheet metal to block the sparks from catching the cover afire. I always turned the counterbore by hand to prevent catastrophic mistakes, but I can understand setting the barrel/extractor between centers in the lathe with the counterbore in the headstock and a plug with center in the appropriate barrel muzzle. I would still loosen the belts and turn the chuck by hand, rather than under power.
Mike

Or get one of those terrible Parker guys to lend you a Clymer chamber reamer for an hour or two. In five minutes, you will be done.

It's a very easy process one of the guys on here loaned me his 28 reamer nothing to it.

File the leading edge a small amount on the extractor then cut the recess it takes about as long as to explain.

Please take it from one who has fitted and rimmed a lot of extractors . Do not mess about and risk ruining the work you have already done . If you cant borrow a correct rimming cutter get someone else who has oneto do it for you .

I ended up sending it back to SKB; I couldn't muster the courage to try it. It's like a $70 part from SKB. The others that I have purchased from SKB have shown up with the cutout already done. I am thinking this was an oversight on their part. Thanks for the suggestions. Gil