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PhysDoc Offline OP
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Thank you AGS

I boiled the stock yesterday and have it secured to a table with a shim pushing the forend tip. How long do you recommend leaving it like that?

Thanks again


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Originally Posted by PhysDoc
Thank you AGS

I boiled the stock yesterday and have it secured to a table with a shim pushing the forend tip. How long do you recommend leaving it like that?

Thanks again


PhysDoc

Should be good to go. Once the wood cools, the lignin bonds harden and everything is pretty much as it will be, though there may be some spring back when you release it.


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Could you please explain this to me. An 11 yo blank should be stable for the environment it has been stored in. It moved when working it. Now boiling/steaming it and clamping it will cure that? I would still like to see the blank in question and the clamping device. Quater sawn, slab sawn or rift sawn? Hoping someone can enlighten me.

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Originally Posted by prairie ghost
Could you please explain this to me. An 11 yo blank should be stable for the environment it has been stored in. It moved when working it. Now boiling/steaming it and clamping it will cure that? I would still like to see the blank in question and the clamping device. Quater sawn, slab sawn or rift sawn? Hoping someone can enlighten me.

I think what he has a piece of wood with stresses built into. It was at a stable equilibrium before he started whittling. As he shaves away wood, the balance of power changes within the stick and things begin to move. Action wood. Limb wood can be like that.


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Limb wood can be like that.
Proper layout minimizes this possibility. Layout trumps figure every time. Hopefully PhysDoc can get some pictures posted.

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PhysDoc Offline OP
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Hi All

Ok,the stock shows some signs of improvement, I was a bit tentative in my first attempt, the stock is boiling as I write this.
Prior to posting this thread, I saw this video which deals with an attempt to fix stock warp. What AGS wrote makes a bit more
sense to me than the variation used in the video. Thank you once again AGS

Mauser sporter stock warp

Ok here are some pictures of the stock[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

sorry they aren't better,

here is a picture of my boiling set up, it keeps the forend tip from touching the bottom of the post.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

And here is a picture of it clamped, the wooden boarded is bolted to the table of my milling machine, the stock is held in place by
bolts going through the triggerguard, and the rubber tubing

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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Is the tubing going to be strong enough? Perhaps a board across the stock and clamped to the table with C clamps on either side? I would think you would want more pressure than that tubing will supply.

Looks like there is some figure in that wood.


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I got the idea for the rubber tubing from the video I referenced above, it is worth watching and gives one a much better appreciation for the problem than I have described here.

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The video is interesting - his rabbit holes always are. I wonder how that gun managed to ever stay straight and what caused it suddenly "take off to the left". I think I would have given up on it early on.


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I see lots of knots and slab sawn wood. Other than that cannot tell much of the grain flow through the forend. Let us know how the fix works, I'm curious to know if it will stay put.

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