S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics39,408
Posts556,455
Members14,512
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 3
Boxlock
|
OP
Boxlock
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 3 |
Hi, All Just joined this wonderful forum. Bought my first vintage double recently, a 1907 Stephen Grant sidelock. Unfortunately one of the ejectors broke at its thinnest point (sorry, don’t know how to post photos yet). Can they usually be repaired? And if so, what’s the best method - welding, brazing or something else? Many thanks Mark
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,536 Likes: 100
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,536 Likes: 100 |
Most things like this can be repaired .But without seeing it, the actual position of the break ,I would be a little hesitant in saying weld or braze . I have done both and have always advised that it is a repair and there will always be an uncertainty as to how long it will last depending on the amount of use it will get . Some times cutting the head off leaving an inch of the original leg and grafting a new lower leg may be an option . The type of ejector work and leg length may also be a consideration as to the kind of repair as some types put greater strains on the legs than others when the ejectors are re- cocked .
|
3 members like this:
Jimmy W, Ted Schefelbein, David Williamson |
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,754 Likes: 116
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,754 Likes: 116 |
Congratulations, Grant's are great guns. Tell us about yours
Mike Proctor
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,675 Likes: 1550
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,675 Likes: 1550 |
Did the ejector blade break off the main stem/shaft, or did something else break like a guide pin? I'm not familiar enough with Grant ejectors to know if they even have guide pins.
I have repaired a broken guide pin with Silvalloy silver solder. If it is a broken guide pin I can re-post the procedure I used to do the solder repair. It is posted under the Technician and Restoration forum on the AHFCA site.
May God bless America and those who defend her.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,002 Likes: 329
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,002 Likes: 329 |
Where do you live so that we can advise you who to take your gun for repair. Selection of the proper gun repair person is paramount.
You should also note that since your Grant is a 1907 made gun it likely has Southgate ejector system which makes it easier to repair than the original series 1 and 2 Stephen Grant Jr. designed ejector system.
Also to help you in discussing the breakage with a gunsmith: Extractors are located in the barrels and they move the shotshell to the rear of the barrels when activated; the "ejectors" also known in the British gun trade as the "kickers" are in the fore-arm. The ejectors (kickers) when released upon opening the barrels after shooting contact the rear of the extractor shaft propelling (via spring tension) it rearward and of course ejecting the spent shotshell. I suspect that since you said your breakage is in the "thin" part your breakage is the thin part of the extractor shaft.
With the advent of micro TiG and laser welding the thin parts of extractor shafts can be welded and that may be best option for you. There are one or two micro TiG and laser welders that service the gun trade in the USA and your gunsmith should be familiar with these welding masters.
I just had a set of double gun cocking levers welded by one of the welding masters.
Kind Regards; Stephen Howell
|
2 members like this:
Jimmy W, Stanton Hillis |
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 3
Boxlock
|
OP
Boxlock
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 3 |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 107 Likes: 12
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 107 Likes: 12 |
Grant, I can make you a new ejector if needed.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,848 Likes: 621
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,848 Likes: 621 |
You have three options. Have that micro welded and refit, cut the stem 1/2” higher, towards the shell rim cut and have a new lower portion made from scratch, or just have a new one made. Being cheap, I would do the micro welding with the understanding it might have the shortest lifespan. Then go for one of the others choice later if it fails. Your decision might be dependent on what shooting volume this gun will have.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,572 Likes: 555
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,572 Likes: 555 |
Not for this repair... you need a machinist who can make a new rod, and is able to weld or silver braze the new rod into the ejector blade. A weld repair at that thin point of fracture will likely fail sooner than later. No sense paying to do the job twice. And if it breaks while hunting, and the broken rod and blade gets kicked out and is lost in high grass, then it just got a lot more expensive.
The"Big Tent" of Gun owners is a Big Fraud... to give cover to fools who vote for Anti-gunners.
|
2 members like this:
builder, Ted Schefelbein |
|
|
|
|