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Joined: Sep 2024
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Boxlock
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Boxlock
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I have lurked for years and finally registered, first post on the forum. I would like to hear from those on the forum with experience on the following.
I primarily work on English/American Walnut shotgun stocks. I have read much information regarding the use of Alkanet and I want to make sure that my proposed plan regarding my first try at applying it. I have much experience using both the transtint aniline dye and the transfast powdered dye, but I worry about it fading on a competition gun that will see much use under the Florida sun. I read much about the Behlen Blood Red stain as well, but I wanted to go with a traditional Alkanet this time. I read a post on here regarding the Duane Wiebe method of refinishing and have implemented some of it into my plan as follows.
*Stock has been sanded to 220 grit and then bleached with Oxalic acid and neutralized with baking soda. Thoroughly rinsed with water afterward. It’s bone white and dry, ready for stain. Should I sand again at 220 before applying or just raise the grain with denatured alcohol and apply direct as is? I have seen some suggest to sand to 400 before applying any stain, but I worry about the sealer not penetrating as deeply. -Not sure that it matters in the end, either. *I have mixed pure alkanet powder (Pakistan) to the rate of 2 tablespoons to 4 ounces of denatured alcohol in a sealed jar for my stain. I used teabags from Amazon to contain the powder and make it easier by not having to filter it later. My plan was to apply it directly to the wood with a foam brush with as many coats until I am happy with it with no blotches. From what I understand, the wood will look beet purple and not look all that great until oil is added later. I know the traditional method is with BLO, but I am not a fan of it at all and there are many modern alternatives.
*I have always used Daly’s products to refinish. I have added 1/2 tablespoon of Alkanet directly to 4 ounces of Daly’s Ship’n Shore for my seal coat and this will also help blend the stain coat in somewhat. I always add seal coat until it wont take anymore (usually two coats) and let dry for 3 days. I use the 3M 7448 Gray Scothbrite pad between coats then sand to 400 grit afterward for final finish.
*The same as the above for Daly’s Seafin for the finish, 1/2 tablespoon of Alkanet powder added directly to 4 ounces of the Seafin. I wait 1 day between coats and build it up until I am happy with it, followed by a White 3M Scotchbrite pad 0000 equivalent between coats.
Final finishing with a paraffin lamp oil & rottenstone mix applied with a square of new felt.
Thoughts or suggestions regarding the above are appreciated. Thanks to all in advance with the sharing of past experiences and outcomes regarding the above. I plan to start on this next week and can take photos for all and share here if wanted.
Last edited by ArtLavely; 09/27/24 11:24 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,147 Likes: 228 |
This may help. Have a look at the posting in the frequently asked question section "Traditional oil stock finish". Red Oil is the traditional way of using Alkanet on gun stocks, it is worth making but if you make it now it will be ready to use in about eight months tine because the root pieces is used not powder well it was used to colour English gun stocks starting about two hundred years ago when time was not as expensive as it is today though still very much used today. As for bleaching the wood first my mind just screams why wood bleaches damages the Lignin?
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
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Joined: Sep 2024
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I use a mild oxalic acid solution that gently lifts any remaining stains, etc. from the wood. It’s far from household bleach and if it was good enough for the British Best gunmakers to do it, I suppose it will suit me well also. I’ve never had any issue using it and stains are more uniform as a result.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,139 Likes: 502 |
I use red oil myself and often finish with Daly's. I use ground root powder, and it seems to give good color without having to wait for months. I also add the root powder to my finish and sealer.
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1 member likes this:
ArtLavely |
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Joined: Sep 2024
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Great to hear it. I think Daly’s makes a great, durable finish on gunstocks. I also plan on doing the same adding alkanet to the sealer and finish as well. Thanks for your input here.
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,197 Likes: 41
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,197 Likes: 41 |
I’d love to see some step by step pictures of stock finishing
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Wow, that alkanet really makes it pop!! Great before and after photos.
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Joined: Sep 2016
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2016
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I have also used powder instead of whole root, but I've wondered if there might be a reason that the traditional red oil called for root instead of powder
Damascus, et al: do you have any insight into this?
Jim
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,618 Likes: 250
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,618 Likes: 250 |
Woodreaux, Was powder commonly available when the traditional red oil was formulated? Mike
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