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Joined: Feb 2008
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Sidelock
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Mike, That premise is mostly on track as the Watco is definitely the thinnest product I used and really soaked in. But the Gilespie Tung Varnish has a lower viscosity than the polyurethane or the Permalyn, yet is the lightest color on the wood. Although it darkened the wood slightly less than the polyurethane, it seemed to enhance the grain more. My little experiment taught me that we can't simply wet our wood with water, alcohol, or mineral spirits and get a perfect notion of the appearance of our final finish. Also, the same finish that really popped the grain of an English or French walnut might hide the grain of a dark Turkish or Black walnut stock. The differences were more dramatic than I expected and I merely wished to see which finishes either concealed or enhanced visability of a glue joint on a stock repair.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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Joined: Mar 2006
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I've used waterlox for stocks and furniture. I still prefer my own modification of the English linseed type finish that circulated here a year or so ago. I add more carnauba to mine. Waterlox is more akin to poly than oil for me. Doesn't rub out as well, though it does build fast and gives a clear finish.

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Joined: Jan 2002
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Hansli, is that the carnauba I am thinking about? :-)

As thin colourless products go I've been trying out Minwax Antique Oil laced with a
dash of BLO and applied by hand rubbing. Very satisfactory results. You start off by
sealing with just Antique Oil and OOOO steel wool and then hand rub with the afore
mentioned mix. The Antique Oil really penetrates and mixed with BLO dries a little
slower to allow you to caress the stock properly. Several coats give a nice luster.
Some OOOO wool in between coats.

Do bear with me, as the local availability of products is limited to say the least.
I was very lucky to find the Antique Oil as it was imported specially for a customer
that finally only bought a few tins and left the rest to be found by yours truly.

The Antique Oil was recommended some time ago by a generous board member
and I could not believe when I found some locally.

JC


"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance."ť Charles Darwin
Joined: Apr 2002
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Sidelock
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Same here, Tex. Initially, halved the basic Hadoke recipe but put in 200gr. of carnauba flakes by mistake instead of a 100 and stuck with it. Actually, if you ever make this stuff for friends as I've done a couple of times, makes a smaller container and they can cut it with more turps and BL if they like. Don't need a drier; you can put it in the safe more or less dustfree and forget about it for awhile--which can be a good thing. Been cutting it back with rottenstone and piece of jigging felt on AyA numba 2 which hadn't been touched since last Sept.

jack

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Joined: Mar 2006
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Yes JC, the very stuff. Gives the oil more body and better grain filling characteristics. I'm experimenting with it as an additive to cheap shampoo to add lustrous shine and bounce to bald guys. If it sells, we may have a market for that warehouse of liquid you have. We need to get some to Jack so he has yet another bottle of whatizit on the shelf.

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Nice to know some of you like 'Salopian Sheep Dip' It's the Lanolin you know?

Joined: Apr 2002
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Peter, I save the anhydrous lanolin for an additive to the Ed's Red cleaner. And for holsters, belts. Lately, I've been wrapping a cotton rag soaked in Ballistol around barrel and frame of my Dan Wesson and sticking the whole thing in the holster. Ballistol allegedly binds molecularly with tannic acid in the gunleather and creates a harmless compound (according to their adverts at least). By the by, no woolies this month; view of Wrekin and the Stretton Hills from Lyn Hill.

jack

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