S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
0 members (),
1,059
guests, and
4
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,467
Posts545,124
Members14,409
|
Most Online1,258 Mar 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
Looked at a nice 12 bore 2E the other day-- 30" LHC stamped barrels- half mood clips at muzzles- both tubes choked IMP/Mod-- Intact stock, POW grip, DT- ejectors in time, bores mint, barrels ring like the bells of Saint Mary's-- BUT-- on the right barrel side- where to top rib meets the barrel radius- for aprox. 7", from aprox. where the top rib expansion joint (silver filled) forward to the muzzle- you can see a solder separation line- you can get the tip of a toothpick into the "groove"--
So, with my good friend Brad Bachelder gone from this earth forever-- Can any of you gents advise me as to how much of a risk I might be taking if I buy this Smith?? Note, the rib separation only shows on the top rib--bores shine like a mirror-no pits or dents in the tubes anywhere- Many thanks-- RWTF
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50 |
Runs, if I read your statement correctly and you stated approximately 7" from the muzzle, that top rib there should be free from solder there. I'm guessing someone re-soldered it and did not clean it up right. The top rib extension at the breech was brazed. Also I would have someone check the bores for honing, they should be .729-.730, especially on a gun that ended production in 1912.
David
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
NOT from the muzzle- from the breech FORWARD towards the muzzles-RWTF
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50 |
It still would not make a difference, it sounds as if the solder was not removed and you see the solder line.
David
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,149 Likes: 1147
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,149 Likes: 1147 |
This would be a good candidate to check for barrel ringing. But, the ejectors would have to be removed to do so properly. https://vicknairgunsmithing.blogspot.com/search?q=barrel+ringing SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
Interesting- never realized that the ejector "luggers" should be removed before "ringing" the barrels with a wooden dowel or hammer handle. Just wondering, Stan- does this also apply to an extractor gun? I usually suspend the tubes with a bungee cord over a padded bench (in case they slip out of the bungee hook-hasn't happened yet) and tap them with the wooden dowel (7/8" dia.) up and down on each tube and listen for the "chime"-- does my method compare to the one you use? RWTF
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,149 Likes: 1147
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,149 Likes: 1147 |
Yes, ejectors or extractors. Even a cocking slide on a set of Fox barrels can change what we're looking to hear clearly, according to Dewey.
I do as Dewey suggests and hang them by the hook from a wire loop, then use a good sized wooden dowel to tap them all along their length, listening for a dullness in the resulting "ringing".
Best wishes with the 2E.
SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
Thanks, Stan. Somehow, I thought I read here, or possibly elsewhere, that Dewey was not big on L.C. Smiths-I read the article a while back in SS about a A.H. Fox he "customized"- He is, without a doubt, a master gunsmith, as was my good friend, the late Brad Bachelder-- We shall see- it is a local private sale, but until I do more research, I'm keeping my wallet intact.
You and I, and others here, have a fairly solid background in: welding, metal fabrication, machine shop and tool & die work--What is a bit puzzling to me is how a set of barrels can be soldered, but the lug and the breech area brazed, as both welding processes involve different degrees of heat input, in other wording, solder flows at a lower temp. than brazing rod. The slight crevice I spotted with a magnifier had the appearance of solder (silver-ish) and not the brass fill you would see with a brazed joint. I would welcome input from any of the well-informed gents on this forum--RWTF
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 277 Likes: 4
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 277 Likes: 4 |
Run
Could it be silver brazed? I occasionally use 56% silver solder/braze, soldering temp is around 1200 deg F.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
You might be right there, amigo. Normal soldering temps, for mild steels, run in the 650 degree F range, brazing in the 800 degree F range (cast iron, especially sand cast with cope and drag pattern CI- closer to 900 degree F-- temperatures taken at the core of a neutral or balanced flame, with oxy-acetylene-- different temp scale if you are using either MAPP or propane for your fuel gas-- The only layman styled concept of barrel joining was what I read years ago in Peter Johnson's book on the Parker Gun--RWTF
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
|
|
|
|
|