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Joined: May 2004
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Sidelock
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Joined: May 2004
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I would concur with most of the advice above.
However, the skill level of your chosen gunsmith is equally important to the method used.
I have repaired exactly the break you have with laser welding and it is still working fine but I approached it with my brain turned on, chose my filler metal carefully and hardened and tempered to achieve toughness not wear resistance. I made sure all filing was carefully radiused and polished.
If you let someone do it who doesn't understand the requirements, it could fail very quickly.
If you go for the gold standard option and have the whole leg remade, the straightness and filing/machining the flat of the split stem is critical or you may have all sort of other issues.
Frankly, if the gun was mine and I didn't have access to a first class gunsmith, I would go for laser welding the original two parts (probably using stainless filler rod as we have discovered it mops up a lot of the carbon, reducing the chance of cracking) and then temper to a fairly soft state to give you toughness. It will wear but if you keep it clean it will probably see you out.

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Boxlock

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Thank you for all the responses. Very helpful.

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Joined: Nov 2021
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Originally Posted by Stanton Hillis
Did the ejector blade break off the main stem/shaft, or did something else break like a guide pin? I'm not familiar enough with Grant ejectors to know if they even have guide pins.

I have repaired a broken guide pin with Silvalloy silver solder. If it is a broken guide pin I can re-post the procedure I used to do the solder repair. It is posted under the Technician and Restoration forum on the AHFCA site.


Stan
I am getting ready to repair the ejectors on a Gr 4 Ithaca. It will involve just remounting the guide and main rod on one side, but I would be interesting in seeing your procedure. Can't have too much info.

Joined: Feb 2017
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Sidelock
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Joined: Feb 2017
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Who would you go to if the broken blade got lost. Obviously a new one must be made

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