Mmmm!! My experience as follows.
Balance tells you how the weight of the gun is proportioned between the hands. Period. You don't have to know/understand the physiology of it, only the dimension (length in inches) of balance as referenced to the (front) trigger; trigger because that is the one point you must touch to make the gun work. Individuals will prefer/need differing balance lengths just as they will with stock dimensions/measurements.
Any round "rod" will work just; like a round pencil or pen. Just be sure not to let the gun slide off and fall. A piece of paper masking tape lightly applied to the bottom of the gun will provide a good place to mark the teeter-totter balance point. The "best" tool is an upside down wooden "T"; bar on a table and the stem pointing up. A 45 degree crosscut on the up end of the "T" stem will make a very, very accurate "knife edge" for balance.
Technical note - balance is the zero sum point of increments of mass times distance from the balance point. The weight on the two sides is not necessarily equal, probably would never be equal. A 4# weight at 1 ft would balance a 2# weight at 2 ft; 4# X 1' = 4 ft-pounds and 2# X 2 ft = 4 ft-pounds.
To characterize handling dynamics one needs weight, balance, unmounted swing effort (MOI at balance point), and mounted swing effort (MOI at butt). Weight, balance and MOI at balance must be measured. With these three measurements you can calculate mounted swing. These four dimensions are to handling as stock dimensions are to physical fit.
As for changing guns handling, recoil pads and weighted forarm guards (John Bugden down in Murry, KY) can work wonders. Stocks can be drilled and barrels back bored or shortened if lightening is needed. Most importantly, these dimensions will tell you if a candidate gun is within an envelope of reasonable correctability. "Wheel weights", tape, etc. have a place in experimentation. There are more elegant long term solutions.
Questions??
DDA
