Thank you Tinker, BrentD and halfadouble.
To answer some questions, it shoots OK, considering the barrel has some pitting. I only shoot cast in it. Lyman 311291 and Lyman 311299 were the molds that shot best. Five shot groups run around 2-3" at 100, off a bench. I can easily break small balloons offhand at 100. I initially had problems with uncalled fliers. I had already glassed the rear of the magazine box, as it acts like a recoil lug, while I was doing the stock work. I figured the barrel band might be the flier problem, so I glassed the forend under the band so that the barrel, band and stock were all fit snugly together. The uncalled fliers disappeared.
I do have a picture of cutting the stock for the chunk of walnut I used for the grip. You're going to laugh. I don't have a mill, so I set up my drill press to do the job. Crude set up, but it gave me the smooth, flat horizontal surface I needed. I hand chiseled the two vertical cuts with a left to right draft so I could tap the block in and have a tight joint. I sketched in the checkering pattern to make sure the joint would be deep enough to be completely under the checkering. I had to make the cut much longer than I would have if doing the job from scratch. The previous sporterizing included an added pistol grip, made of a piece of 2x4, and set so far back a shooter would have to have hands like an Orangutan to get any benefit from the grip. I also included a picture of the gun before I started in on it to show that. If I was adding a grip to an unaltered stock, I would have made the joints right at the back of the trigger guard and right at the rear of where the grip cap would be, to make them less noticable. On this stock I had to make the rear joint about an inch behind the grip cap in order to remove all of the 2x4. That's out there where it is easy to see. I had to add some slivers of wood, taken from the barrel channel, to help hide the straight lines of that joint. A little bit of red mahogany stain and checkering hid everything else pretty well.