I have done many, many rib repairs. I do not seem to have near the problems you have Karen. Less gobs of solder, more time prepping and the proper heat envelope and the vast majority of time a rib repair can be performed cleanly and successfully.
As always, what a pleasure for you to share the depth of your experience with us.
All my best,
Steve
I looked through this entire Thread Stevie, and did not see anyone named Karen who mentioned having the kinds of problems doing rib repairs that you mention. It looks very much like you are once again doing all you can to Troll and to disrupt Woodreaux's thread. Nothing new there. Or maybe you were just hitting the bong a little early today, and didn't comprehend what you were reading.
I did say that I had no problem doing the only loose rib repair I have needed to do so far. Kutter did say that it was a rarity to find barrels with perfect soldering joints, and not have leaks to contend with during bluing. Mike obviously recognized that fluxing and tinning is a necessary part of soldering. I did accurately note that attempting to solder a contaminated joint would result in having solder roll off and not stick. I think most of us have probably seen old guns that had rib or forend lug repairs that looked like gobs of gray bubblegum.
I did have problems with soldering a couple times while doing solder repairs on old dirty truck and tractor radiators. Poor cleaning or fluxing will cause leaks and other problems when soldering pipes and tubing, or anything else. But as anyone who has actually done any amount of soldering knows, once I got the area clean enough and used the right flux, the solder flowed like magic. I tried four different brands of flux before I struck gold when repairing a hole punched in the radiator of my old Ford tractor.
As far as your comment about sharing depth of experience goes, you showed me that you probably don't have much actual experience when you posted that you were doing a 45 second Damascus etching dunk in a 14.5% ferric chloride solution at mid 60's temperature. Those who have actually blued or browned Damascus will immediately be amused by your comment. Others were "surprised" by it and commented on that insane etch dwell time. You later said you were dropping your etch time to under 10 seconds, and cutting the concentration considerably. You revealed a lot about actual "depth of experience" there. Here's your post #76837, and a link to the whole Thread where you changed your story. Too funny, but a lot of people seem to have some pathetic need to act like experts on the internet:
Chuck,
we have been using a 14% solution for our dip, immersing the cupon for about 45 seconds. More to follow, hopefully with pics.
Steve
I'm still always open to learning more about things like rust bluing, etc. But I also learn a lot about people here. Some just can't be trusted.
